This year, Rolex is introducing an Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller in a yellow Rolesor version, combining Oystersteel and 18 ct yellow gold. Unveiled at Basel-world 2019, this new watch brings 18 ct yellow gold to the Sea-Dweller range for the first time.
On its black dial, the name “Sea-Dweller” is inscribed in a yellow hue, echoing the colour of the 18 ct yellow gold. When the Sea-Dweller was updated in 2017, this lettering was in red, in reference to the original model. The light reflections on the case sides and lugs highlight the profile of the Sea-Dweller’s 43-mm Oyster case, which features a unidirectional rotatable bezel with a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert in black ceramic.
This new version is equipped with calibre 3235, at the forefront of watchmaking technology. Like all Rolex watches, the new Sea-Dweller carries the Superlative Chronometer certifcation, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.
The Sea-Dweller was designed in collaboration with the pioneers of professional deep-sea diving, who spent extended periods underwater. This ultra-resistant tool watch accompanied the first experimental underwater habitat programmes. It played a vital role in conquering the ocean depths thanks to its Oyster case, initially waterproof to a depth of 610 metres (2,000 feet), then, from 1978, to 1,220 metres (4,000 feet), and thanks to an important innovation patented by Rolex: the helium escape valve, fitted into the side of the watch case.
A paragon of robustness and reliability, the Oyster case of the Sea-Dweller is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 1,220 metres (4,000 feet). Its middle case is crafted from a solid block of particularly corrosion-resistant Oystersteel. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The winding crown, fitted with the Triplock triple waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case and is protected by an integral crown guard. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and is fitted with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimum protection for the Sea-Dweller’s high-precision movement.
The helium escape valve, patented by Rolex in 1967, acts as a safety valve. It allows excess pressure built up in the watch case during a dive to escape during a diver’s decompression phase in a hyperbaric chamber, while preserving the waterproofness of the watch.
Rolesor, the combination of gold and steel on a Rolex watch, has been a signature feature of the brand since 1933 when the name was registered. It is a meeting of two metals: one, noble and precious, attractive for its lustre and stability; the other, highly resistant, known for its strength and reliability. All of these qualities perfectly mirror the elegance and performance that come together in a Rolex watch.
On the new yellow Rolesor version of the Sea-Dweller, the bezel, winding crown and centre links of the bracelet are in 18 ct yellow gold, while the case and outer links of the bracelet are in Oystersteel.
Rolex played a pioneering role in the development of special ceramics for creating monobloc bezels and monobloc bezel inserts. Not only are these new materials extremely corrosion-resistant and virtually scratchproof, their colours are also of a rare intensity and unaffected by ultraviolet rays. The brand has developed exclusive expertise and innovative high-technology manufacturing methods that allow it to produce these ceramic components completely independently.
On the new version of the Sea-Dweller, the unidirectional rotatable bezel is fitted with a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert in black ceramic that allows divers to safely monitor their dive and decompression times. The moulded, recessed graduations and numerals are coated with yellow gold via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition). The bezel’s knurled edge offers excellent grip, to comfortably set dive time even when wearing gloves.
The new version of the Sea-Dweller is equipped with calibre 3235, a new-generation movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. A consummate demonstration of technology, at the forefront of the art of watchmaking, this self-winding mechanical movement led to the fling of several patents and offers fundamental gains in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability.
Calibre 3235 incorporates the Chronergy escapement patented by Rolex, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, it is also insensitive to magnetic interference. The movement is fitted with an optimized blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive paramagnetic alloy that makes it up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. The blue Parachrom hairspring is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring its regularity in any position. The oscillator is fitted on the Rolex-designed and -patented high-performance Paraﬂex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance.
Calibre 3235 is equipped with a self-winding module via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of calibre 3235 extends to approximately 70 hours.
Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller is covered by the Superlative
Chronometer certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This exclusive designation testifies that every watch leaving the brand’s workshops has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, which exceed watchmaking norms and standards. The certification applies to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement, guaranteeing superlative performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The precision of a Rolex Superlative Chronometer is of the order of −2 /+2 seconds per day, or more than twice that required of an official chronometer.
The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.
This version of the Sea-Dweller is fitted with an Oyster bracelet. Introduced in the late 1930s, the Oyster bracelet is a particularly robust metal bracelet with three-piece links.
The Oyster bracelet on this new version is equipped with a Rolex-designed and -patented Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. It also features the Rolex Glidelock extension system, designed and patented by the brand. This inventive toothed mechanism, integrated beneath the clasp, allows fine adjustment of the bracelet length by some 20 mm in increments of approximately 2 mm, without the use of tools. The watch can therefore be worn over a diving suit up to 3 mm thick. A concealed attachment system ensures seamless visual continuity between the bracelet and case.
Model: Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller, Yellow Rolesor Version
Case reference: 126603
Bracelet reference: 97223
Category: Oyster Perpetual Professional
Superlative Chronometer certification
International five-year guarantee
• Oyster (monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown)
Integral crown guard
Helium escape valve
Diameter: 43 mm
Material: Oystersteel and 18 ct yellow gold (yellow Rolesor)
Middle case: Oystersteel, satin finish with polished sides
Bezel: 18 ct yellow gold, unidirectional rotatable; 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert in black ceramic; moulded, recessed numerals and graduations coated with yellow gold via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition); capsule in 18 ct yellow gold, highly legible Chromalight (long-lasting luminescence, blue glow)
Case back: Solid, screw-down with fine fluting
Winding crown: Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire; Cyclops lens over the date with double anti-reflective coating
Waterproofness: 1,220 metres (4,000 feet)
Calibre 3235, Manufacture Rolex
Mechanical movement with bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor
Precision: −2/+2 sec/day, after casing
Jewelling: 31 rubies
Power reserve: Approximately 70 hours
• Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
• Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock with secure rapid-setting
• Stop-seconds for exact time setting
• Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
• Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring
• Rolex overcoil
• Large balance wheel with variable inertia
• High-precision regulating via four gold Microstella nuts
• Traversing balance bridge
• High-performance Paraﬂex shock absorbers
• Chronergy with optimized energy efficiency
• Paramagnetic nickel-phosphorus pallet fork and escape wheel
• Black, gloss, fine satin finish
• Hour markers in 18 ct yellow gold, highly legible Chromalight (long-lasting luminescence, blue glow)
• Hands in 18 ct yellow gold, highly legible Chromalight (long-lasting luminescence, blue glow)
• Oyster, three-piece solid links
• Polished centre links in 18 ct yellow gold, satin-finished outer links in Oystersteel with polished edges (yellow Rolesor)
• Oysterlock folding safety clasp
• Rolex Glidelock extension system (approx. 20 mm in increments of approx. 2 mm)