Presented at the Baselworld watch fair in 2018, the Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph collection from Swiss luxury watch brand Czapek & Cie combines traditional refinement with the sportive function.
The Faubourg de Cracovie comes in a slightly modified 41.5-millimeter Quai des Bergues Revolution case in steel. The famous crown protectors are still in place and now serve, ingeniously, as pushers. The dial, under an edgy sapphire crystal, is also unmistakably Czapek: The two signature subdials have been enlarged and moved up to 3 and 9 o’clock positions, where they now display the chronograph’s minutes and hours respectively.
A small seconds subdial shares the date spot at 6 o’clock. The razor fine “trotteuse” chronograph hand stands out thanks to its bright red tip, which homes in on an equally visible red Roman “12” or “60” at the top of the hour, depending on the model.
The Faubourg de Cracovie employs two different dial crafts. One style reintroduces the fascinating guilloché “Ricochet” of the Quai des Bergues collection. Intersecting circular lines form a pattern of bas-relief squares that make the dial come alive, recalling the wave interference pattern a stone might make when ricocheting on water. This traditional technique was made possible by the rose engine lathe, which was devised in the late Eighteenth century and became a key machine in fine dial-making.
The other dial, coated with brilliant grand-feu white enamel, is perhaps the most unexpected in a modern chronograph. It provides a contrasting backdrop for the various functions displayed and the watch’s delicately skeletonized hands. The two welded subdials have been enlarged to the maximum technically possible for greater visual balance. The dial shape is “bombé”, another technical prowess of Donzé Cadrans and at the same time the illustration of Czapek & Cie spirit. Finally, the brand’s “secret signature” adorns once again the enamel.
The three new models are called “Grand Feu”, “L’Heure Bleue” and “Dioné & Rhéa”. The watch is driven by the SXH3 integrated column-wheel chronograph movement built by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. This automatic movement delivers 65h power reserve from a single barrel that drives the balance wheel at 36,000 vph.
The movement features a linear hammer, which reduces wear and tear on parts and resets all the associated dials in one easy movement. A modern solution, the vertical clutch, ensures a perfect start for the chronograph hand. Finally, the diamond-blasted anthracite bridges give the final aesthetic twist to the movement visible through the transparent case back.
The Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph is the company’s third collection and was named after the location of Czapek third boutique, which he opened in 1850 in Warsaw, Poland.
Hours, minutes, small seconds, date with semi-instant jump, chronograph with center seconds, 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter. Stop seconds.
Calibre SXH3: Haute Horlogerie integrated chronograph automatic bespoke movement
Power-reserve > 65 hours on a single barrel
Frequency: 5 Hz – 36,000 VpH
Diameter: 30 mm – 13 ¼ lines
Height: 6.95 mm
Coupling: vertical clutch
Finish: finely sandblasted and diamond-polished anthracite bridges, snailed trottoirs
Stainless Steel case
41.5 mm of external diameter
Height: 11.5 mm (14.6 mm with glass-box)
“Glass-box” sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Sapphire crystal case back with anti-reflective treatment on the inside surface
Water-resistance: 50 meters (5 atm)
L’Heure Bleue Model : Galvanic Blue handmade guilloché dial in a special gold, silver, palladium and platinum plate; New iteration of the exclusive Czapek guilloché ricochet with an 8/10th millimeter-wide groove; Steel rhodium plated hands
Grand feu Model: “Grand feu” Enamel dial with a secret signature “Czapek” in the small seconds sub-dial; Elongated roman numerals, symbol of the Czapek elegance, XII in scarlet red; Blued steel skeletonized hands
Dioné & Rhéa Model: Handmade reverse “Panda” Guilloché dial in a special gold, silver, palladium and platinum plate; New iteration of the exclusive Czapek guilloché ricochet with an 8/10th millimeter-wide groove; Steel rhodium plated hands
Alligator strap with steel deploying buckle
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