Swiss watch brand Tudor presents a new yellow gold and steel version of its popular Black Bay divers’ watch. Equipped with the Manufacture Calibre MT5612, the Black Bay S&G model also introduces the date function to the Black Bay family. In this version the lines and proportions of the Black Bay are retained, while the rotating bezel and the winding crown are made from yellow gold. The steel bracelet is also dressed in this precious metal on its central link giving it a more formal feel.
The Manufacture Calibre MT5612 is a variation of the movement first presented by TUDOR in 2015 and has been developed for the Black Bay S&G model. A date function features for the first time in the Black Bay line, adding to the hour, minute and second functions that are a feature of all Black Bay models.
This high performance calibre has 70-hours of power reserve. Beating to a frequency of 28,800 beats/hour or 4 Hz, the movement is regulated by a variable inertia oscillator with silicon balance spring. This is held in place by a traversing bridge, guaranteeing its robustness. Furthermore, the movement is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
The bracelet of the Black Bay S&G model is inspired by the folding riveted bracelets of the TUDOR watches produced in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having rivet heads for attaching the links, shown on the side of the bracelet.
The links also had a distinct stepped construction. These two aesthetic details are incorporated into the bracelet of the Black Bay S&G model, integrating modern manufacturing methods using solid links.
Two additional designs are available: brown aged leather strap and folding clasp or brown fabric strap made using the Jacquard technique, a traditional method achieved by a 150-year-old family firm from the St-Etienne region of France.
The history of the TUDOR divers’ watch dates back to 1954 with the launch of reference 7922. The first in a long line of ergonomic, legible, accurate and robust divers’ watches, it perfectly embodies the approach formulated by the American architect Louis Sullivan who stated that the form of an object must follow its function. Furthermore, it laid down the aesthetic and technical foundations of an ideal divers’ watch; an understated, functional and reliable tool.
The sixty years that followed the launch of the original 7922 saw the constant improvement of the TUDOR divers’ watch. Each model gained unanimous acclaim from professionals in the field including some of the greatest military navies in the world.
TUDOR derived the characteristic aesthetic elements of the Black Bay S&G model from its history. The overall shape, as well as the domed dial and crystal, come from the first TUDOR divers’ watches. The prominent winding crown is a feature of the famous reference 7924 from 1958. The first TUDOR watch to be waterproof to 200 metres (660 ft), known as the Big Crown. Finally, the characteristic angular hands, known as snowflake, are typical of the watches delivered to the French Navy in the 1970s.
Model: Black Bay S&G
41 mm steel case with polished and satin finish
Unidirectional rotating bezel in yellow gold with 60-minute graduated matt black anodized aluminium disc, gold markings
Yellow gold screw-down winding crown, with the TUDOR rose engraved and lacquered in black, with black anodised aluminium winding crown tube
Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproof to 200 m (660 f)
Black or champagne-colour, domed
Manufacture Calibre MT5612
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4Hz)
Total diameter: 31.8 mm
Thickness: 6.5 mm
Jewels: 26 jewels
Power reserve: Approximately 70 hours
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
Instantaneous date with rapid adjustment without non-correction range
Stop seconds for precise time setting
Steel and yellow gold bracelet or aged leather strap with folding clasp and safety catch, or fabric strap with buckle
Swiss retail price (VAT incl.)
With leather strap: CHF 3,600.–
With bracelet: CHF 4,750.–
With fabric strap: CHF 3,600.–