TUDOR expands its Black Bay diving watch collection by presenting the new model named Black Bay Fifty Eight, which houses a new TUDOR manufacture movement.
The Black Bay Fifty-Eight is named after the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch, waterproof to 200 metres, the reference 7924, dubbed the “Big Crown”, was introduced.
Among other aesthetic allusions to this famous historic watch, this model has a 39 mm diameter case, in keeping with the characteristic proportions of the 1950s. It is aptly proportioned to suit slim wrists, people who like more compact watches and, of course, vintage enthusiasts. It also comes in a new colour combination – a subtle variation on the aesthetics of the Black Bay line.
Evocative of a time when TUDOR divers’ watches were first being made, finishing touches in gold have been applied to the hour markers, hands and minute track of the black and steel bezel. The winding crown tube is in satin-brushed steel – a new feature in the Black Bay line – in keeping with the style of the case and winding crown, which bears the TUDOR rose logo in relief.
In 2018, three years after the introduction of its first Manufacture Calibre, TUDOR launches a second family of movements. With its 26 mm diameter, the Calibre MT5402 displays hour, minute and second functions and has been designed for medium-sized TUDOR watches.
The Calibre MT5402 has the appearance and finish typical of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres. Its openwork rotor is entirely satin-brushed and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted surfaces and laser decorations. Its structure has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity and reliability, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Thanks to these qualities, together with its non-magnetic silicon balance spring, it is certified as a chronometer the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The movement has a power reserve of 70 hours.
The bracelet of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight model is inspired by the folding riveted bracelets of the TUDOR watches produced in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having visible rivet heads that attached the links, as well as a stepped construction. These two aesthetic details are incorporated into the bracelet of the Black Bay Fifty-Eight model, integrating modern manufacturing methods using solid links.
Two additional designs are available: a brown leather strap with a folding clasp or black fabric strap with a gold coloured band. This special fabric strap was made using the Jacquard technique, a traditional method achieved by a 150-year-old family firm from the St-Etienne region of France.
Like other models in the Black Bay line, Black Bay Fifty-Eight features a dial inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. They adopt the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as snowflake that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its large winding crown and the red triangle of its rotatable bezel are identifying features from the first generation of TUDOR divers’ watches that were waterproof to 200 metres (660 ft).
Model: Black Bay Fifty-Eight
39 mm steel case with polished and satin finish
Unidirectional rotatable bezel in steel with 60-minute graduated disc in matt black anodized aluminium and pink gilded markings and numerals
Steel screw-down winding crown, with the TUDOR rose in relief, with circular satin-brushed steel winding crown tube
Domed sapphire crystal
Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft)
Riveted steel bracelet with polished and satin finish or brown leather strap with folding clasp and safety catch or black fabric strap with a gold-coloured band and with buckle
Manufacture Calibre MT5402 (COSC)
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute)
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4Hz)
Total diameter: 26 mm
Thickness: 4.99 mm
Jewels: 27 jewels
Power reserve: Approximately 70 hours
Centre hour, minute and seconds hands
Stop-seconds for precise time setting
CHF 3,100 to CHF 3,400 [Swiss price (VAT incl.)]