Presented at Baselworld 2018, the Black Bay GMT timepiece from TUDOR incorporates a multiple time-zone function that establishes local time without losing sight of the time in two other time zones. Specially dedicated to travelers, this watch sports a new manufacture movement.
The rotatable bezel derives its deep blue and burgundy colour theme from other models in the Black Bay line, but in a matt version, the Black Bay GMT is also a nod to the early days of this watchmaking function.
Additional time zones are indicated by a red snowflake hand, TUDOR’s aesthetic hallmark, which spins around the dial in 24 hours, as well as a bidirectional rotatable bezel that is also calibrated for 24 hours. The twelve daylight hours are printed on the burgundy section and the night-time hours on the blue. With a steel case, 41 mm in diameter, the Black Bay GMT model is waterproof to 200 metres (660 f) and designed to withstand the elements. Its winding crown tube is in satin-brushed steel, new for the Black Bay line and aesthetically in keeping with the case and winding crown. Its contrasting black dial means that it is legible in all conditions, including night-time, thanks to its luminescent hour markers. The dial features a GMT marker at 6 o’clock.
A new Manufacture Calibre with the reference MT5652 has been developed by TUDOR for the Black Bay GMT model. This introduces a new function to the line of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres, an apt demonstration of TUDOR’s approach to technical development. The integration of new functions is allowed by a flexible architecture, rather than by adding ever more complicated modules. This self-winding movement offers 70-hour power reserve.
The Calibre MT5652 has the appearance and finish typical of Manufacture Calibres. Its openwork rotor is satin-brushed with sand-blasted details and its bridges and mainplate have alternate polished sand-blasted surfaces and laser decorations. Its structure has been designed to ensure robustness, longevity and reliability, as has its variable inertia balance, which is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. Thanks to these qualities, together with its non-magnetic silicon balance spring, it is certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
The bracelet of the Black Bay GMT model is inspired by the folding riveted bracelets of the TUDOR watches produced in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having visible rivet heads that attached the links, as well as a stepped construction. These two aesthetic details are incorporated into the bracelet of the Black Bay GMT model, integrating modern manufacturing methods using solid links.
Two additional designs are available: “Terra di Siena” brown leather strap and folding clasp or black fabric strap with a burgundy band. Made using the Jacquard technique, a traditional method achieved by a 150-year-old family firm from the St-Etienne region of France, this strap is a signature feature of TUDOR.
Like other models in the Black Bay line, the Black Bay GMT features a dial inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. They adopt the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as snowflake that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Lastly, the large winding crown, characteristic of the first generation of TUDOR divers’ watches to be waterproof to 200 meters (660 ft), is also adopted in this new model.
Model: Black Bay GMT
41 mm steel case with polished and satin finish
Bezel: Bidirectional rotatable 48 notches bezel in steel with 24-hour graduated anodised aluminium disc in matt burgundy and blue
Steel screw-down winding crown, with the TUDOR rose in relief, with circular satin-brushed steel winding crown tube
Domed sapphire crystal front glass
Waterproof to 200 m (660 f)
Manufacture Calibre MT5652 (COSC)
Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system
Swiss Chronometer officially certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing
Total diameter: 31.8 mm
Thickness: 7.52 mm
Jewels: 28 jewels
Power reserve: Approximately 70 hours
Variable inertia balance, micro-adjustment by screw
Non-magnetic silicon balance spring
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4Hz)
Jumping hour (second time zone), 24-hours, minutes and seconds at the centre
Instantaneous date at 3 o’clock without non-correction range being synchronised on the jumping hour hand
Stop seconds for precise time setting
Riveted steel bracelet, with polished and satin finish, or “Terra di Siena” brown leather strap with folding clasp and safety catch, or black fabric strap with burgundy band and with buckle
Retail price (VAT incl.)
CHF 3,400.– to CHF 3,700.–