Since 2015, the Young Talent Competition allows discovering the next generation of most talented young watchmaking apprentices in the world, supports them in their route to independence by identifying their achievements and putting them under the spotlight. F.P.Journe organised the Young Talent Competition this year with the support of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH).
F.P.Journe awarded the Prizes for the third year to the winning young talents, on Wednesday, 17 January 2018, during the press conference at the SIHH in Geneva.
The jury of the Young Talent Competition 2018 was composed of key personalities from the international horological scene: Philippe Dufour, Giulio Papi, Andreas Strehler, Marc Jenni, Pascal Ravessoud, Michael Tay, Elizabeth Doerr and François-Paul Journe. Their selection criteria have been based on technical achievement, the search for complexity in their realization, their sense of design and aesthetics.
The 2018 winners received a diploma and a CHF 3,000 grant from Horotec.
The 2018 winners are: Charles Routhier, Rémy Cools and Théo Auffret.
Watchmaker: Charles Routhier
Creation: Halley – Wristwatch inspired by astronomy and bearing the name of the renowned comet Halley.
This watch carries the name of the famous comet “Halley” that can be seen every 76 years. Its inspiration was found in the many details linked to astronomy (comets, stars, constellations, planets).
Its night blue face with a visible pendulum (heart of the watch) and its bridge in the shape of a comet make it a very poetic, blended and attractive watch. The bridge mechanism is inspired by the ancient astrolabes. Orion’s constellation is hidden among the stardust. The pendulum bridge is in the shape of a comet.
Case: Steel diameter 42 mm, height 13.00 mm
Movement: 28’800 V/h, anchor escapement, 14 jewels
Functions: hours, minutes Dial: Brass golden 5N and palladium, circled by hand, Onyx cabochon and metallic pearls, comet shaped balance Spring Bridge at 12h.
Specificities: Baseplate and bridges conceived and made by hand, the pin of the anchor is turned over and its small shaft is displaced in order to put the pendulum and its bridge into the shape of a comet on the dial. The time setting is made of only two parts which allows for a simple milling and assembly. The movement is made of 18 machined or reworked parts, without counting the cinematic, the sets of screws and pins.
Watchmaker: Rémy Cools
Creation: Mechanica Tempus Pendulette Tourbillon – A whirlwind clock set on a foundation with parts from a L’Epée clock and on a theme related to the great eras of watchmaking.
This clock features an imposing tourbillon to obtain more movement. The clock has an off-centre display as well as an inclining movement system inspired by maritime chronometers. It allows the movement to lean in all the various directions so as to see the movement from all angles. It follows all the codes for little office clocks one usually thinks of. It has a style with traditional shapes but is still very contemporaneous.
The clock features some of the finishing techniques such as chamfered polishing, blocked polishing, strapping as well as more modern finishing like sanding. The contrast between the golden parts and grey rhodied as well as with the sanding, the chamfering and the traditional engravings give it a rather interesting depth. The stand and the storage case for the key are made of jatoba (courbaril) wood.
Display of the hour and the minutes, display of the seconds by the tourbillon, winding and time-setting by key.
Dimensions: H 30 cm x L 20 cm x D 15 cm Movement: Diameter 110 mm, thickness 30 mm
Dial: Diameter 60 mm, diameter sanded background 45 mm, circling on the periphery i.e 7.5 mm, fixation screws identify 3h and 9h
Indication: Hours and minutes, second indications from the Tourbillon, winding and time setting with key.
Specificities: Tourbillon cage 42 mm diameter doing a complete rotation in 60 seconds.
Watchmaker: Théo Auffret
Creation: Tourbillon à Paris – Handmade Tourbillon regulator chronometer “à Paris” with traditional techniques
The Tourbillon à Paris watch was entirely hand-made. The movement is composed of a flat central base plate in maillechort and bridges, front and back. A great wheel meshes a cage rotating in 60 seconds. The balance wheel oscillates at a frequency of 18000 V/h. The chronometric cylinder is very high and allows for a tall spring that is long and thin to prolong the ideal chronometric period as much as possible. The cylinder, and the centre gear and the free-moving pinion are from the Maison Peuseux’s 260 high-end calibre, who created this movement in the first part of the twentieth century.
The centre gear meshes with a large mid-gear and this construction is not found very often because the module used is larger than the preceding one, but this choice makes it possible to reduce the number of gears in the calibre so as to reach the cage pinion of the Tourbillon, in fact, each gear added increases friction and reduces the efficiency of the calibre. Also, the large modules make it possible to have a very precise gear at the level of the interaxe. So a strong force will easily get to the cage pinion. Besides, the mid-gear rotation is visible due to the size of the cut-out.
The display is of the “regulator” type, so the hour hand is off-centre on the face made of silver and the minute hand in the centre joins a face in “a path of dots” on the outside of the front face. The hands were manufactured on 8 mm tour in 20AP steel for a perfect escapement, then finished with a file. Due to certain height limitations on certain parts, the watchmaker used key-screws, so one is visible above the escapement. This old technique keeps it firmly stable at only one point, but each time it has to be adjusted by hand.
Only two bridges are made of steel, on the back of the watch, and hold the last level of the watch, which is the cage pinion and the large mid-gear. All the screws were manufactured on a Schaublin 102, in steel, soaked, angled, pulled then polished. The case and the loop were handmade by twisting 900/1000 silver and by welding silver bars. The case alone required one month of work. The crown is made of white gold and the traversing loop screw of titanium. The cases mineral crystals were custom-made by a craftsman in Paris who worked with a case blank.
Case: Silver 38 mm diameter, thickness 11.5 mm, silver clasp Movement: 14.5 lines, maillechort and steel bridges, spiral with Phillips curve, 18’000 V/h Escapement: lateral anchor wheel from Jaeger LeCoultre approx 1920 Power reserve: 40 hours Functions: Hours, minutes and 60 seconds cage Dial: Hours in fine silver, circled, polished, hands turned by hand and filed, polished and blued Bracelet: Alligator navy blue.
Specificities: The construction was studied in roder to prepare the piece for Chronometry in the easiest way, poising, setting. The sensitive watch organs have been specifically prepared to be solid and reliable (time setting, winding, click with large recoil. The goal being to make a solid and easy to wear watch on a daily basis.