This high jewellery version of Admiral’s Cup Legend 38 incorporates both invisible and snow setting techniques. Diamonds and sapphires play a fascinating musical score, backed by a symphony orchestrated around 1,444 stones totaling 11.56 carats.
Each part of the watch – dial, bezel, case, oscillating weight, bracelet and buckle – seduces the onlooker with their dazzling radiance, thanks to the different types of techniques of gemsetting and other art-crafts employed in the construction of this high jewellery timepiece. The dial was created with one of the most demanding techniques: invisible setting. The complexity was further heightened by the need to reinterpret this technique in order to set the 462 stones composing the floral dial motif. This was because the smallest stones – the dial alone features seven different sizes – might have been broken if the classic method has been used: namely cutting a notch into the gem to accommodate the seating that was to support it.
The artisan initially fitted the dial upside down on a transparent plate, before meticulously pouring a silver-based alloy over the structure. By seeping into the tiniest gaps between the stones, the matter thereby solidly holds together the 24 baguette-cut purple sapphires (approx. 2.04 cts), 138 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 3.11 cts), 108 baguette-cut pink sapphires (approx. 1.67 cts) and 198 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.25 cts).
These stones, having thus become a plate, could then be removed from the transparent backing. After a final polishing to eliminate any traced of impurity, this precious plate could at last be fitted on the white gold dial, thereby unleashing the full radiance of the gems beneath which the underlying metal structure has completely vanished.
The case and bracelet are adorned by means of another technique: snow setting. No less than 804 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 3.79 cts) merge into each other, playing on their varying diameters to entirely carpet the 18K white gold of the case, bezel, lugs and crown. Embodying a wealth of patience and expertise, the bracelet secured by a folding clasp also comes in a snow-set version featuring entirely hand-crafted white diamond flakes in 10 different sizes exquisitely embracing the curve of the wrist.
This timepiece is driven by a mechanical automatic movement, Caliber CO 082. The dial has chosen to reveal only essentials, marking off the hours and minutes to the beat of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). Through the sapphire case back, this fine mechanism with its 42-hour power reserve reveals its most distinctive feature: an entirely gem set white gold oscillating weight. The latter represents an extremely rare challenge due to the stunning complexity of such an endeavor on a rotor, that is part of the functional movement components. This uncompromising aesthetic approach features 71 pink sapphires (approx. 0.23 cts), 14 purple sapphires (approx. 0.05 cts) and 73 diamonds (approx. 0.21 cts) reproducing the floral dial motif. Further sublimating these delicate petals and corollas, hand-crafted engravings around the white gold circumference of the case back further accentuate the inspired refinement of this creation.
The Admiral’s Cup Legend 38 is available with a white crocodile leather strap fitted with a white gold folding clasp set with 20 diamonds (approx. 0.21 cts).
Model: ADMIRAL’S CUP LEGEND 38
Reference: A082/02058 – 082.109.69/0F09 FL10
Dimension: 38 mm
Thickness: 10.30 mm
Case material: 18kt white gold • 605 Round diamonds • ~ 2.27 ct
Bezel material: 18kt white gold • 132 Round diamonds • ~ 1.45 ct
Crown material: 18kt white gold • 67 Round diamonds • ~ 0.07 ct
Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Back type: Screwed in open back cover in 18kt white gold with glare proof sapphire crystal
Back finishes: Engraved CORUM logo
Water-resistance: 30 meters / 3 ATM
Movement number: CO 082
Winding system: Automatic
Functions: Minute • Hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz, 28’800 vph
Dimension: 11 1/2”’
Movement finishes: Rotor in 18kt white gold, set with 71 rose sapphires (~0.23ct), 14 violet sapphires (~0.05ct) and 73 round diamonds (~0.21ct)
18kt gold dial set with
– 24 Baguette violet sapphires • ~ 2.04 ct
– 108 Baguette rose sapphires • ~ 1.67 ct
– 138 Baguette diamonds • ~ 3.11 ct
– 192 Round diamonds • ~ 0.25 ct
Distinctive features: CORUM logo transferred under the sapphire glass
Hour and minute: Baton; Rhodium-coated; Faceted; Skeleton
Material: Crocodile leather
Interhorn/Buckle: 19/15 mm
Buckle : 18kt white gold Triple folding clasp with 20 Round diamonds (~ 0.21 ct); Engraved CORUM logo; Opening and fastening system using 2 pushers
Limited Production of 5 pieces