Independent luxury Swiss watch maker URWERK has created the UR-210 Dubai unique watch engraved by Florian Güllert. This artistic horology creation will be unveiled at the now established Dubai Watch Week hosted by Ahmed Seddiqi& sons, retailers. On its aesthetic side, this timepiece takes inspiration from the breathtaking views and richness of the Dubai city.
Regarding the timekeeping function, the satellite indication with retrograde minutes is both original and astonishing. The prominent role is played by the three-dimensional minutes indicator — a high-tech structure that grips the hours cube and transports it from 0 to the 60th minute on the scale.
This hourly journey through time takes place with smooth regularity along an arc of 120°, but at the end of the 59th minute, the UR-210 shows what it is capable of. With a sharp click, the structure jumps back to its starting point in less than a tenth of a second to take control of the next hours satellite.
This quick retrograde indication depends on three key mechanisms:-
- A central shaft ensures the system’s stability. Pivoting on rubies, it is the rock on which the entire complication is constructed. A marine-chronometer spring along this axis provides the tension for the retrograde action.
- The unconventional minutes hand, that acts like a kind of fairing around the satellite, frames the outsize hours numerals. It has been very precisely cut to tolerances of three microns. Forged out of aluminum, its total weight of 0.302 grams is perfectly poised by a brass counterbalance.
- A double coaxial star cam governs the retrograde action. Its gearing and then its rotation will determine the trajectory of the minutes hand.
- The dial of the UR-210 displays a conventional power-reserve indicator at 1 o’clock.
On the opposite side at 11 o’clock is the first ever indication of the winding performance of the watch during the past two hours on your wrist. Instead of showing the torque or the tension in the mainspring, it shows the winding efficiency by calculating the ratio between the energy generated to wind the watch and the energy used to keep it going.
Knowing the winding efficiency of your watch enables you to adjust the winding rate. If your UR-210 shows that not enough energy is being generated, you can turn the winding rate adjuster on the back of the watch to FULL. The winding rotor then becomes sensitive to the slightest motion, converting it into pure energy. The rotor is connected to a turbine that ensures an optimum winding rate while dampening shocks.
If your activity creates too much energy, turning the adjusting wheel to REDUCED absorbs some of that energy to prevent unnecessary stress on the mechanism. A turbine mounted on ruby bearings starts to spin, acting as an air compressor and creating a resistance that slows down the winding rotor. In the STOP position, the self-winding system is disengaged and the UR-210 becomes a manually wound watch.
Model: UR-210 Dubai
Titanium and steel, engraved by Florian Güllert
Width: 43.8mm, length: 53.6mm, thickness :17.8mm
Glass: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30m/100’/3ATM
Surface finishes: Satin finish; bead-blasted
Strap: Metal bracelet with deployment clasp developed by Maspoli for URWERK. Engraving by Florian Güllert
Escapement: Swiss lever
Frequency: 28,800v/h, 4Hz
Balance spring: Flat
Power source: Single mainspring barrel
Power reserve: 39 hours
Winding system: Self-winding coupled to turbines
Materials: Main plate in rhodium coated ARCAP P40; 3D minutes hand in aluminium with brass counterweight; central cylindrical spring in steel; hours satellites in aluminium; central carrousel and screws in grade 5 titanium
Surface finishes: Circular- and straight-grained main plate; satin-finished and diamond-polished satellites; bevelled and polished screw heads
Patented revolving satellite complication with wandering hours and three-dimensional retrograde minutes hand; power reserve indicator; patented winding efficiency indicator
Super-LumiNova® luminous coating on hands and markers
Two-position winding crown with crown guard
On the back: winding rate selector