Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret Rubies

Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret Rubies timepiece showcases the art of gem setting with breathtaking vibrancy. No fewer than 185 invisibly-set, baguette-cut Burmese rubies totalling almost 10 carats grace the white gold cover, lugs and buckle of this mesmerising objet d’art.

Rubies are revered for their rarity, hardness and deep red colour. Burmese rubies, in particular, are coveted for their rich red hue, enhanced here by the terraced edges of the baguette cut.

While this piece’s 18k white gold cover is set with 149 rubies (7.9carats), adorning the lugs area further 32 stones (1.1 carats). Even the 18k white gold pin buckle is sumptuously decorated with four baguettes (0.5 carats) to complete this masterful display of gem setting.

The gold cover makes the task of invisibly setting the rubies even more challenging as each stone has to be hand-adjusted to fit its slightly curved profile. This meticulous operation results in nearly every stone being unique – the stones are not simply interchangeable within the overall pattern.

Inside beats the innovative, Grand Prix de Genève-winning movement of Logical One, which was conceived, developed, produced, decorated, assembled and regulated in-house at Manufacture Romain Gauthier.

This pioneering movement features Romain Gauthier’s 21st-century reinterpretation of a traditional chain-and-fusee style constant force mechanism. Gauthier’s invention contains a revolutionary ruby-link chain, snail cam and sapphire-lined mainspring barrel offering nearly two days of constant force – the holy grail of precision watchmaking.

Pressing the caseband pusher at 4 o’clock unlatches the cover, allowing the wearer to lift it up and admire Logical One Secret Rubies’ palladium-treated movement through the sapphire crystal directly beneath. The snail cam and ruby-link chain are on full show, as are bespoke gear wheels with graceful circular arms; polished screw heads with distinctive s-slot; balance wheel with curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights; hand-frosted bridges; and Romain Gauthier-invented triangular pallet lever.

More of the outstanding movement can be viewed through the display back; bridges and plates bearing a number of angles – including several sharp internal angles – feature rounded bevels that have been meticulously handcrafted. This type of eye-catching anglage brings out the inherent beauty of the components.

Logical One Secret Rubies is a unique piece.

Technical details
Unique piece
Invisibly set with 185 baguette-cut Burmese rubies totalling 9.5 carats: 18k white gold cover set with 149 rubies,7.9carats; lugs set with 32 rubies, 1.1 carats; 18k white gold pin buckle set with 4 rubies, 0.5 carats

Features and indications
Art of gem setting: 185 invisibly set Burmese baguette rubies, totalling 9.5carats
Movement features chain-and-fusee style constant force system, push-button winding and superlative hand finishing
Hours, minutes, small seconds and 46-hour power reserve indicator

Dial and hands
Skeletonised hour and minute hands in 18k white gold
Solid small seconds hand in 18k white gold
Subdials fixed via Romain Gauthier polished screws with distinctive s-slot
White enamel dial on an 18k white gold base

Movement and finishing
Dimensions: 35.5mm x 10.5mm
Power reserve: 46 hours
Number of jewels: 63 in total, including 26 for the constant-force chain
Number of components: 359
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Movement components in: steel, stainless steel, beryllium copper, brass, titanium and German silver
Patents: 4
Finishing: Highest-level haute horlogerie finishing

Case material: 18k red gold
Dimensions: 43mm x 15.9mm
Water resistance: 30m/3atm/100ft
Sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating, front and display back
Crown for time setting at 2 o’clock
Push button for winding at 9 o’clock
Pusher for unlocking cover at 4 o’clock

Strap and buckle
Alligator leather strap hand-stitched in Switzerland with 18k white gold pin buckle invisibly set with four rubies totalling 0.5 carats

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