When it was first introduced in 2013, Jade represented several firsts in Haute Horlogerie. Its UN-310 caliber was the first movement to be designed and produced in-house by Ulysse Nardin specifically for a woman’s watch. And it was the first timepiece to take into account a woman’s delicate manicure when manipulating the settings. With its innovative crown design: no pulling is required to wind the watch, set the time, or adjust the date back-wards or forwards, only a simple turn.
Ulysse Nardin has created a unique “Cloisonné” enamel timepiece in rose gold that displays all the craftsmanship of the Donzé Cadrans enamel specialists with a magical marine-inspired design.
The Cloisonné is an enameling technique in which the outline of the dial designs is produced first on paper and then on the dial itself. Extremely fine strips of gold wire measuring only 0.07 mm wide are hand bent, applied and glued to the outline using two pliers. The individual cells that give the image de-tail, dimension and nuance are also formed by gold wire and placed within the outline. Colors are then picked out for each cell in order to create the cloister effect. Five layers of enamel are applied to the cloisonné dial with a brush; all colored cells filled in and baked (800-1200 degrees celsius) in the kiln for a total of five times or more. If needed. Then come the surfacing step before the polishing the dial with a file. These multiple levels of color create the sense of depth and three dimensions that make the enamel dials come to life.
While it appears wonderfully decorative, set with 56 diamonds, Jade has a deeply practical side, as its crown design attests. Its movement incorporates Silicium components for enhanced precision and durability. It boasts anti-reflective sapphire crystal and case back and a water resistance to 30 meters.
Reference 3106-125B/LIONFISH, “Cloisonné” enamel dial
Caliber UN-310 Escapement in silicium 41 jewels
Power-Reserve: 48 hours
Winding: Mechanical self- winding
Hours, minutes, small seconds
Date in a register at 6 o’clock, quick setting forwards and backwards
Simplified selection of winding, adjusting the date and time setting via a pusher at 4 o’clock
Case, dial and strap
18 ct rose gold case
Dimension: 36 mm x 39 mm
Dial “Cloisonné” enamel, motif lionfish, set with 3 diamonds
Bezel: 18 ct rose gold, set with 56 diamonds Water-resistance 30 m
Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Case-back: Sapphire crystal
Bracelet: Satin strap with folding buckle
3106-125B/LIONFISH: € 44’000.–, CHF 44’000.–