The new L.U.C Perpetual Chrono by Chopard interprets the exclusivity of platinum combined with a hand-wound chronograph and a finely crafted perpetual calendar. Endowed with one of the most sophisticated styles and constructions in the world of Haute Horlogerie, the 20-piece L.U.C Perpetual Chrono limited edition is intended for modern gentlemen, connoisseurs and devotees of exceptional objects.
Entirely developed and produced in the Chopard Haute Horlogerie workshops, L.U.C calibre 03.10-L is built around a column wheel that controls all chronograph operations including the flyback function. Zero-resetting is done by means of progressive-contact hammers, a guarantee of precision. It ensures smooth yet firm activation of the timing-related components via a vertical coupling clutch. This was the exceptional base mechanism chosen to house the perpetual calendar of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono.
This calendar is recognisable by its large twin-aperture date display, complemented by indications of the day, the month and the cycle of standard and leap years. The finishing touches are set by a day/night indication and an orbital moon-phase display. The latter guarantees graphic and accurate readings of the age of the moon, with a mere one-day deviation in 122 years.
Since the original configuration of this calendar uses the same areas as the chronograph – both involving indications at 3 and 9 o’clock – the architecture of the perpetual calendar had to be adjusted to offset the day/night indicator by a few millimetres. This arrangement determined the specific layout of the dial and its counters, while optimising its legibility.
The L.U.C Perpetual Chrono has earned double certification. The rating precision of its L.U.C Calibre 03.10-L has been certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). In parallel, each of these platinum watches – meaning both movements and cases – has successfully met the evaluation criteria of the Poinçon de Genève. This distinction of excellence perpetuates the tradition of the Geneva master watchmakers and is a guarantee of superlative craftsmanship. Formerly attributed to the movement only, the Poinçon de Genève currently puts the watch as a whole to the test.
The movement quality criteria are thus backed by other standards unreservedly met by Chopard. The water resistance, the precision, the chronograph and perpetual calendar functions, as well as the power reserve, are meticulously appraised before being awarded the famous quality hallmark. Chopard proudly belongs to the select circle of Haute Horlogerie brands demonstrating such exceptional artisanal savoir-faire.
After a limited series in Fairmined gold launched in 2016, the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono appears in platinum this year. The 45 mm case crafted from this rare material is vertically satin-brushed on the sides and polished on the bezel as well as the lugs, thereby creating a textured finish that gives it even greater visual depth.
The dial of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is in solid gold, adorned with a hand-guilloché motif that creates subtle light effects radiating from the large twin-aperture date display. A high-precision galvanic treatment endows it with its deep blue shade, the colour chosen by Chopard for its platinum limited series.
The choice of noble materials extends right the way through to L.U.C calibre 03.10-L, which is made of nickel silver, a naturally light grey alloy that ideally lends itself to surface treatment but cannot tolerate scratches. Nickel silver is harder than brass, more resistant to oxidation and acquires a natural patina. Any mistake made in executing the Côtes de Genève motif, circular-graining, satin-brushing and polishing operation omnipresent on the movement is irretrievable. This movement thus calls for the most expert hands exercising their craft in the watchmaking workshops of Chopard Manufacture.
The strap of the L.U.C Perpetual Chrono is made of hand-sewn large square-scaled vegetable-tanned alligator leather. Given that a L.U.C watch will be admired from every angle, Chopard has also made the lining in chestnut brown small square-scaled alligator leather.
Model: L.U.C Perpetual Chrono
Ref. 161973-9001 – in platinum
20-piece limited edition
Total diameter: 45 mm
Thickness: 15.06 mm
Water resistance: 30 metres
18ct white gold crown with L.U.C logo: 8.50 mm
18ct white gold pushers
Vertical satin-brushed case middle
Polished bezel and back
Glareproofed sapphire crystal
Hand-wound movement L.U.C 03.10-L
Number of components: 452
Total diameter: 33.00 mm
Thickness: 8.32 mm
Number of jewels: 42
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 60 hours
Nickel silver mainplate and bridges
Côtes de Genève motif adorning the bridges
Chronometer-certified by the COSC
Poinçon de Genève
Solid gold dial with hand-guilloché pattern centred around the date, galvanic blue sunburst satin-brushed pattern centred around the date – snailed blue case middle – blue and white transfers
Rhodiumed Roman numerals and hour-markers
Rhodiumed Dauphine-type hands for the hours, minutes, small seconds, day and month counters
Baton-type rhodiumed red-tipped chronograph sweep-seconds hand
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock
Large date at 12 o’clock
Days of the week displayed at 9 o’clock and months at 3 o’clock
Orbital moon display at 6 o’clock
Offset day/night display at 10 o’clock and offset leap-year indication at 2 o’clock
Vertical coupling-clutch chronograph with flyback function
12-hour counter at 9 o’clock
30-minute counter at 3 o’clock
Time-setting with stop-seconds function
Hand-sewn matt blue alligator leather strap, brown alligator leather lining
Platinum pin buckle