Celebrating the 20th anniversary of its Aquanaut watch family in 2017, Swiss luxury watch manufacture Patek Philippe updates this sporty and dynamic line by presenting Aquanaut Ref. 5168G, a men’s wristwatch in 18K white gold.
The Aquanaut line was first introduced in Basel in 1997. Created to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the exceptionally successful sporty Aquanaut series, the new Ref. 5168G is the first men’s Aquanaut wristwatch in 18K white gold.
With its somewhat warmer hue, it clearly sets itself apart from stainless steel. But as with the other Aquanaut models (and the Nautilus watches), the design of the gently rounded octagonal bezel with vertically satin-finished flats and chamfered polished flanks remains unchanged. Moreover, with a diameter of 42 millimeters, it is the largest model in this line.
The format pays tribute to the original 1976 Nautilus “Jumbo” of the same size. The night blue hue of the dial and the strap is new as well. Additionally, the night blue color of the dial gradates from bright in the center to black toward the outside as was the case with the Ref. 5164 Aquanaut Travel Time in rose gold (and as a further reminiscence of the bright-dark gradation of the Nautilus). With its finely embossed checkerboard pattern, it provides the ideal backdrop for the applied Arabic numerals in white gold. Thanks to the Superluminova coating, they are readily visible in the dark. Another new facet of the Ref. 5168G: the luminous five-minute markers are set by hand appliques in 18K white gold. Hovering above the dial, sharp-tipped luminous baton hands for the hours and minutes are paired with a slender, counterbalanced and white-laquered parfil seconds hand in bronze. The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the precise and elegant self-winding manufacture movement that choreographs the ballet of time.
This model houses the self-winding caliber 324 S C movement. Measuring 3.3 millimeters in height, the movement is so flat that even with its elaborate seals and gaskets, the complete watch is still only 8.25 millimeters thick overall. With its heavy central rotor in 21K gold, it extracts and stores energy from every movement of the wrist and features a rate accuracy of -3 to +2 seconds per day as specified by the directives of the Patek Philippe Seal. The finissage of the movement, visible through the sapphire-crystal case back, is truly fascinating. The bridges are decorated with strictly parallel Geneva striping, have countersunk and polished holes for the jewels and the screws with polished circumferences and slots. They also feature gold-filled engravings, as well as round-chamfered and polished edges that emphasize the contours of the individual bridges. Exquisite perlage decorates the center of the gold rotor around its ball bearing. Circular graining underscores the form and function of the rotor. It is also endowed with a large engraved Calatrava cross, a registered Patek Philippe trademark element.
The new Aquanaut Ref. 5168G is fitted on a night blue composite strap embossed with the typical Aquanaut pattern and 18K white-gold fold-over clasp. This strap is superbly comfortable, extremely tear- and abrasion-resistant, and insensitive to salt water and UV radiation.
Model: Aquanaut Ref. 5168G
Caliber 324 S C
Self-winding mechanical movement. Aperture date. Sweep seconds
Diameter: 27 mm
Height: 3.3 mm
Number of parts: 213
Number of jewels: 29
Power reserve: Min. 35, max. 45 hours
Winding rotor: 21K gold rotor, unidirectionally winding
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax® (in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable
Three-position screw-down crown:
• Pushed home To wind the watch
• Pulled halfway out: To correct the date
• Pulled all the way out: To set the time
With hands: Center hours, minutes, and sweep seconds
In an aperture: Date
Patek Philippe Seal
18K white gold
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water resistant to 120 m (12 bar)
Case dimensions: Diameter (10 to 4 o’clock): 42.2 mm
Width (9 to 3 o’clock incl. crown): 44.9 mm
Length (across lugs): 50.1 mm
Overall height (crystal to lugs): 9.1 mm
Height (crystal to display back): 8.25 mm
Width between lugs: 22 mm
Brass, blue PVD coating
Applied Arabic numerals in 18K white gold with Superluminova coating
12 applied five-minute markers in 18K white gold with Superluminova coating
Hour and minute hands: Baton-shaped hands in 18K white gold with Superluminova coating
Parfil seconds hand, bronze, white lacquered, counterbalanced
Water-, UV-, and abrasion-resistant composite material with checkerboard embossing to match the dial, night blue, double-security fold-over clasp in 18K white gold