This year, Vacheron Constantin is revisiting one of its most iconic models: the Traditionnelle chronograph perpetual calendar. Equipped with the new Manufacture Caliber 1142 QP, this timepiece perpetuates the tradition of excellence cultivated by the finest Geneva watchmakers. With this new creation appearing in a 950 platinum and 18K 5N pink gold versions, Vacheron Constantin has opted to combine two key Fine Watchmaking complications: the chronograph and the perpetual calendar.
With its classic round case, the Traditionnelle collection by Vacheron Constantin embodies the values cherished by the Maison, combining tradition and formal elegance with supreme mastery of horological complications.
The new Traditionnelle chronograph perpetual calendar is the ultimate expression of this successful synergy. The collection’s distinctive design codes are reflected in each and every detail: the stepped case with a distinctive fluted pattern on the back, the dauphine-style hands and the railway-type minute track. A white or black tachymeter scale surrounding the dial accentuates the technical nature of the watch.
Exemplifying a concern for legibility, the dial features various shades of grey with finishes that differ according to the functions, reflecting the layout of 1940s Vacheron Constantin chronographs. Standing out against a slate- or silvered-coloured opaline base, the small seconds and chronograph minutes counters are distinguished by a circular-brushed ring with snailed centre.
The 22K white gold or pink gold moon disc is hand-finished in keeping with the fine tradition of artistic crafts cultivated by Vacheron Constantin. Positioned in the centre of the date counter, it provides a symbolic depiction of a moon face that is alternately smiling or melancholy, depending on the path of the Earth’s satellite. A subtle nod to historical pocket watches.
This sophisticated aesthetic approach is matched by the technical evolution embodied in the movement of the Traditionnelle chronograph perpetual calendar. Caliber 1142 QP, a state-of-theart movement entirely designed and developed within the Manufacture, replaces the 1141 QP.
The new movement drives the perpetual calendar functions – with indications of the days, date, months, leap years and moon phases – as well as the chronograph functions with a direct-drive seconds hands and 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, positioned opposite the small seconds at 9 o’clock. This newcomer to the Traditionnelle collection will thus be able to keep track of all the vagaries of the calendar without any need for adjustments until March 1st 2100.
With the development of this new caliber, the Vacheron Constantin watchmakers and developers have been keenly attentive to the energy constraints relating to the chronograph functions, in order to minimise their impact on the 48-hour power reserve. The oscillation frequency of the balance has also been raised from 2.5Hz to 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour) so as to increase reliability and shock resistance. Like all Vacheron Constantin movements, this new caliber visible through an elegant transparent sapphire crystal caseback was developed and designed to meet the stringent Hallmark of Geneva criteria.
This emblem of Geneva’s watchmaking excellence applies both to the caliber itself and to the finishing of the watch as a whole, governed by demanding norms that make it one of the most rigorous and renowned watch industry certifications.
Unveiled at SIHH 2017, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle chronograph perpetual calendar is fitted with a hand-stitched Mississippiensis alligator leather strap secured by a 950 platinum or 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp.
Model: Traditionnelle chronograph perpetual calendar
References: 5000T/000P-B048 & 5000T/000R-B304
Hallmark of Geneva certified timepieces
Caliber 1142 QP
Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
27.5 mm (12’’’) diameter, 7.37 mm thick
Approximately 48 hours of power reserve
3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
Hours, minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock
Perpetual calendar (day of the week, date, month, leap year indication)
Column-wheel chronograph (30-minute counter at 3 o’clock)
950 platinum / 18K 5N pink gold
43 mm diameter, 12.94 mm thick
Transparent sapphire crystal caseback
Water-resistance tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx. 30 meters)
Slate-coloured / silvered opaline, 22K white gold/ 22K 4N pink gold moon disc
White/ black painted tachymeter scale
18K white gold / 18K 5N pink gold hour-markers
Black / brown Mississippiensis alligator leather with alligator inner shell, hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: 950 platinum / 18K 5N pink gold folding clasp; Polished half Maltese cross-shaped
With watch winder
Delivered with a corrector pen