For the Lady Levity watch from the Dalliance collection, Fabergé took inspiration from a silver gilt, enamel and rock crystal desk clock created by Fabergé workmaster, Henrik Wigström, in Saint Petersburg around 1910.
With a rock crystal man-in-the-moon relief at its centre it was impossible to employ traditional, centrally mounted hands to indicate hours and minutes; therefore, Wigström chose to mount indicators around its periphery, tracking against an enamel ring dial. Fabergé has recreated this concept in a wristwatch with the help of Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, founder of Agenhor.
Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and his team developed the manual AGH 6911 calibre at the heart of the new Fabergé Lady Levity. The 36mm watch uses stylised indicators to display the time; a crescent moon for hours and rising sun for minutes, tracking against a white mother-of-pearl ring dial with grey indices.
As no motion work is present to turn hands at the central axis, the AGH 6911 instead features a central void which allows a supporting structure to be secured into the movement itself and, as such, it can support a comparatively large mass, at least when compared to other horological components.
While the central element of the Fabergé Lady Levity features a man-in-the-moon decoration, inspired by that original Fabergé table clock, the concept behind the watch’s design has always been intended to offer a secret feature that can be personalised to the owner through bespoke customisation.
After much research, Fabergé adopted a technique that has never before been used in this manner in watchmaking. The chosen motif is printed in platinum on a domed sapphire crystal before white mother-of-pearl is set on top to match the peripheral dial.
As such the motif is not immediately apparent, except at certain angles when the light catches itand provides one of Fabergé’s signature surprises. The printing technique means that the customer can specify any design they desire within the dimensions of this crystal canvas.
The AGH 6911 calibre is refined using perlage decoration on the mainplate and Cotes de Genève stripes on its hand-chamfered bridges. The movement also boasts a 50-hour power reserve from a single barrel and Agenhor’s unique AgenPIT regulation system, which offers a simplified approach to adjust the balance wheel.
The central principle of AgenPIT sees the hairspring clamped in place by a moveable jaw. The jaw is opened by means of a single screw while the hairspring is then retracted or extended by means of a second, rubberised screw. Once the hairspring has been regulated the jaw can be clamped shut once again.
The Fabergé Lady Levity is presented in 18 karat rose gold with 18 karat rose gold crown, anti-reflective domed sapphire crystal and caseback and is secured on an alligator strap with 18 karat rose gold pin buckle.