Angelus, one of the most iconic brand names in the history of centuries old Swiss watch industry, made a comeback in 2015 with an outstanding tourbillon collection. Now the brand introduces its latest horology masterpiece, the U20 Ultra-Skeleton Tourbillon
Made of sapphire, carbon and titanium and incorporating cutting edge watchmaking technology, the U20 Ultra-Skeleton Tourbillon watch is a beautiful mechanical haute horlogerie sculpture that stands tall among contemporary luxury watch creations.
From the movement to the case design, every aspect of the U20 has been conceptualized to allow light to enter the watch and reveal the splendor of the movement’s architecture and tourbillon. The first elements one sees are the raised dome sapphire crystal of the carbon case and the mirror-polished beveled edge of the monobloc titanium lugs, all reflecting the light.
A deeper look reveals the virtually transparent movement floating in the case and allowing an unobstructed view through the watch. The quest for transparency and three dimensionality is essential in the world of ultimate high-end watchmaking. The goal is to present the essence of the movement by removing any superfluous material. What seems to look deceptively simple to achieve requires great artistic vision and engineering prowess. The more material that is removed, the more the structure of the movement has to be carefully calculated to ensure rigidity and sturdiness.
The U20 Ultra-Skeleton does not boast an ordinary movement that has been skeletonized afterwards, but a tourbillon movement that has been created from scratch to be symmetrical, transparent and resplendent.
To further enhance transparency, the U20 features a sapphire main plate. The bridges have been made of blued titanium and have been skeletonized to increase transparency even further. The bridges’ beam shape also maximizes rigidity – the latter being essential for chronometric precision.
The discerning eye will be pleased to discover that haute horlogerie has not been sacrificed on the altar of transparency: components in the Ultra-Skeleton Tourbillon have been hand-chamfered, hand-polished and hand satin-finished to ensure that they look as good as they are filigree.
And to further increase visibility into the top of the three-dimensional movement, the U20 Ultra-Skeleton Tourbillon features a unique design element. The case dispenses with a bezel and instead uses a sapphire crystal dome, which also allows a sideways view onto the movement.
The U20 Ultra-Skeleton Tourbillon deserves closer inspection, which reveals many of the well thought-out details that go into transforming a skeleton watch into an ultra-skeleton haute horlogerie watch: the variable inertia balance wheel of the tourbillon is especially designed and crafted to minimize air friction; the sapphire main plate is polished to the highest optical grade; ruby bearings are set into solid gold chatons. The ultra-light case, entirely made of carbon-fiber, titanium and sapphire, has been designed to echo the visual lightness and the technical feel of the timepiece.
The U20 Ultra-Skeleton Tourbillon is available in a limited edition of 18 pieces in carbon fiber/titanium case.
Model: U20 Ultra-Skeleton Tourbillon
Features and Indications
Central hours and minutes, one-minute flying tourbillon, haute horlogerie manufacture movement with sapphire main plate and blue skeletonized satin-finished titanium bridges
Movement and Finishing
Calibre: Angelus A-250, manual-winding with flying tourbillon, sapphire main plate and blue titanium bridges
Jewels: 18, set in solid gold chatons
Diameter: 32.60 mm
Height: 5.78 mm
Power reserve: 90 hours
Frequency: 21,600 vph / 3 Hz
Balance: Variable inertia regulated by four gold weights, minimal air-resistant design
Escapement: Swiss lever
Gear train: Exclusive Angelus 6-spoke design to maximize rigidity
Complications: One-minute flying tourbillon, ultra-light form
Tourbillon cage: Steel, hand-chamfered and hand-polished
Movement finishing: Haute horlogerie, all steel components with hand-chamfered and hand-polished edges, flat surfaces mirror-polished or satin-finished
Material: sapphire dial is actually the movement main plate
Hour and minute markings: printed spokes on outer chapter ring
Hour and minute hands: rhodium-treated and skeletonised
Material: NPT carbon-fibre and titanium
Diameter: 42.00 mm
Height: 10.30 mm including sapphire crystals
Crown: engraved with ANGELUS logo; 2 positions: 1. winding, 2. time-setting
Back: sapphire display back
Distance between lugs: 21.00 mm
Water resistance: 30 m / 100’/ 3 atm
Crystals: Sapphire crystal dome with anti-reflective coating on inside surface
Strap and buckle
Material: stealth black alligator leather with titanium insert
Length range: 75 mm to 115 mm
Width: 21 mm
Buckle: titanium, pin buckle engraved with Angelus logo
Limitation and reference
Limited Edition: 18 pieces