Switzerland based luxury watch atelier Jean Dunand Pièces Uniques presents new versions of its grand complication timepiece: Shabaka, which is entirely conceived and produced in Christophe Claret’s manufacture in Le Locle.
A truly extraordinary timepiece initially launched few years back in association with Christophe Claret, Shabaka boasts a breathtaking combination of a minute repeater on cathedral gongs with a perpetual calendar with ‘jumping’ indications on cylinders and an original moon phase display. It is now introduced in an all new case and with new and unique dials.
Defining both the personality and the originality of this impressive timepiece are the calendar indications, defying the convention of discs by instead using cylinders. Four cylinders are set in motion by 90° transmission devices, each fitted with a security system ensuring precise calendar changes. A proprietary wheel train driven fly wheel mechanism absorbs a y shock from the instantaneous jump and so prevents any lag, damage and premature wear and tear. Also distancing Shabaka from convention are the day and month indications that jump instantaneously at midnight thanks to the release of a sprung mechanism.
|Jean Dunand Shabaka (New Edition – Red Gold Case, Stromatolite dial)|
Leap – year cycles merit their own, equally novel indication: a white plate under the dial, visible through a cut out opening between 7 and 8 o’ clock, illuminates the letter B (for ‘biss extile’) and the three ordinary years. The leap – year is mirrored by the phases of the moon, with chrome metallization – black sapphire discs that depict the moon craters. These disks skim over the surface of the moon as if it were the shadow of the earth, eclipsing it to the left as it wanes and revealing it from the right as it waxes. This precision moon deviates from the real moon by just one day in 120 years.
For all the complexity of the calendar mechanism, the power reserve indicator on the back of the watch is deviously simple. A single moving part- the main spring itself in an open barrel shows the power reserve of watch against a scale.
Shabaka’s minute repeater strikes on cathedral gongs that go twice around the movement to give a deeper, more resonant chime. The minute repeater slide occupies the left side of the case; all owing the calendar setting controls to reside on the right side. Just two chronograph style pushers are needed to set the entire calendar. The pusher at 4 o’ clock adjusts all calendar indications forward by one day increment while that at 2’o clock adjusts the days of the week only. A coaxial push – pieces set in the crown adjusts the month s and years, while the moon is set via a push – piece set in the case – band at 5 o’ clock. A complex series of levers and rollers insinuate their way around the movement from the pushers to activate the respective calendar indications.
The Shabaka caliber is of a radically original construction, with the perpetual calendar mechanism integrated in to the 13 – ligne repeating movement. The 7mm diameter cylinders are embedded 2. 5 millimetres in to the minute repeater movement thereby reducing the thickness of the total movement by as much.
Shabaka boasts a design and finishing work of the highest Swiss watchmaking standard. And sooner or later it had to be presented in an authentic formal dress: a generous, 47 mm diameter round case with highly refined, timeless lines, made of polished rose gold, white gold or palladium.
Charcoal black circular – grained base -plate and bridges, exquisitely decorated with concentric Geneva stripes, contrast with the burnished steel set with jewels and gold accents. The beauty of the movement and all it s dazzling complexity can be viewed through the see-through case back.
|Jean Dunand Shabaka (New Edition – White Gold Case, Pietersite dial )|
On the front side, the geometrical dial architecture is enhanced by the natural beauty of the semi-precious stone it is made of. Two dial versions revealed at this 2015 Baselworld fair: first a Stromatolite dial the deep red tones of which match the rose gold case marvellously well; then a Pietersite dial with blue-grey tones, harmoniously associated with a white gold case. The future will see a large choice of different dials being offered, all made of noble, original materials and produced by the best ‘Métiers d’art’ craftsmen. Hence each piece will be truly unique.
Inspired by the Art Déco style, Shabaka also acknowledges a clear influence from the Tourbillon Orbital, Jean Dunand’s other flagship model that has been produced with a variety of original and precious dials ever since its launch in 2004. All Jean Dunand timepieces including Shabaka are developed and produced in Christophe Claret manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland.
Manually wound minute repeater movement with instantaneous perpetual calendar
Balance with adjusting screws on an overcoil spring, swan neck, 18’000 VpH
45 hour power reserve
Number of components: 721, including 54 jewels
Diameter: 29,5 mm (13 lignes)
Calendar plate: 36 mm x 3,2 mm (14 lignes)
Total height, including dial and displays: 12,19 mm
Hours and minutes with open-work ‘skyscraper’ hands
Day, date and month on cylinders
Power reserve indicated by the mainspring directly
Repeats hours, quarters and minutes on two cathedral gongs
Pusher in the case-band to set the entire calendar (4 o’clock) and to set the day of the week only (2 o’clock)
Push-piece in the crown to set months and years
Push-piece in the case-band (5 o’clock) to set the moon-phase
Repeating slide along left case-band
18 ct white gold or palladium or rose gold with ‘métiers d’art’ dials
Dimensions: 47 mm x 17,65 mm
Water resistance: 3 ATM (30 m).