Romain Gauthier – HMS Ten

Swiss luxury watch atelier Romain Gauthier celebrates its 10th anniversary by launching a brand new timepiece, HMS Ten. This exceptional wristwatch features off-centre hours and minutes; small seconds; partially open dial; hand-finished, in-house movement visible through display back; and ergonomic flat case back crown.

The dial of HMS Ten is a harmonious composition of circles and arcs. Inside the chapter ring, there is the smoothly finished, off-centre hours-minutes subdial bearing the R. Gauthier logo and flanked either side by a Clous de Paris.

On the lower portion of the subdial, sectorial seconds allows visual access to the movement below, with the balance wheel and distinctive gear driving the seconds on show. The three parts of the dial are fixed invisibly from beneath, lending clarity and classicism to the displays.

The graceful 41mm diameter case is distinguished by pure, clean, unbroken lines around its full perimeter. However, it is the absence of a normal crown that reveals just how remarkable the movement is.

Placing the crown flat on the caseback increases winding efficiency because energy does not need to be transmitted through 90°. It also reduces wear and stress on components. The large diameter of the crown also enables the watch to be easily wound, even while on the wrist.

While the dial side treats the observer to a partial view of the movement – which was entirely conceived, developed, designed, produced, assembled and regulated by Manufacture Romain Gauthier – it is through the display back that this in-house calibre is fully showcased, with virtually every component bearing Roman Gauthier’s distinctive touch.

The Vallée de Joux style finger bridges catch both the light and the eye with their seductive polished curves. The bespoke gear wheels feature circular arms providing both elegance and strength; the polished screw heads bear a unique S-slot, enabling more torque to be applied and aesthetic.

With its distinctive curved arms and calibrated eccentric weights, the balance wheel has been designed and manufactured by Romain Gauthier. The regulator even features a high-efficiency triangular pallet lever, another Romain Gauthier invention.

The large movement bridge at the top has a cut-out revealing some of the mainspring barrel and ratchet click. The cut-out features four highly polished, sharp internal bevelled angles – this anglage is the hallmark of superlative hand finishing since machines are not yet capable of milling and polishing sharp internal angles.

Impressively, all components are designed, developed and manufacture by Romain Gauthier except for the mainspring, balance spring and jewels.

HMS Ten is available in three limited editions of 10 pieces each: platinum case/blue dial, white gold case/champagne dial and red gold case/anthracite dial.

Technical details

Features and Indications
Off-centre hours and minutes sub dial at 12 o’clock
Sectorial seconds at 4 o’clock
Dial open 4 o’clock to 8 o’clock to reveal balance wheel and seconds gear
Multi-level, multi-textured dial featuring smooth and Clous de Parisfinishes
Hand-finished, in-house movement visible through display back
Flat crown on caseback for ergonomic winding

Case
Case materials: 5N red gold, white gold or platinum 950
Dimensions: 41mm x 12.1 mm
Water resistance: 10m /1 atm

Dial and Hands

Platinum 950 limited edition of 10 pieces

– Blue dial
– Smooth finish on subdial and seconds arc
– Guilloched finish around hours-minutes subdial
– Silvered numerals
– Rhodium-treated hands

18k 5N red gold limited edition of 10 pieces

– Champagne dial
– Smooth finish on subdial and seconds arc
– Guilloched finish around hours-minutes subdial
– Black numerals
– Gilded hands

18k white gold limited edition of 10 pieces

– Champagne dial
– Smooth finish on subdial and seconds arc
– Guilloched finish around hours-minutes subdial
– Black numerals
– Gilded hands

Movement and Finishing
In-house manufacture movement Calibre HMS
Power reserve: around 60 hours
Number of jewels: 22
Number of components: 128
Balance frequency: 28,800 bph / 4Hz
Fine hand finishing including hand polished screws and jewel countersinks, hand polished bevels and bridges

Strap and buckle
Alligator leather hand-stitched in Switzerland with pin buckle in metal to match case

Leave a Reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.