Patek Philippe Twenty~4 ®Haute Joaillerie “Aquatic Life” Ref. 4909/110

Debuted at Baselworld 2014, this Twenty~4® Haute Joaillerie timepiece reflects Patek Philippe’s expertise and know how in the field of high jewellery watches as well as in traditional horology craft.

Established since 1839, Patek Philippe has been safeguarding all the artistic skills needed to make the precious inner life of its timepieces visible from the outside, transforming them into the most beautiful and rarest treasures. The sparkling Twenty~4® Haute Joaillerie Ref. 4909/110 is a latest addition to this legacy.

Altogether 1937 diamonds and sapphires grace the dial, case, bracelet, and clasp of the Twenty~4® Haute Joaillerie Ref. 4909/110 with its poetic “Aquatic Life” motif.

All gems are flawless and immaculately cut, the baguette diamonds sparkle in Top Wesselton white, and the fire of the sapphires is intensely blue. With a total weight of approximately 43.73 ct., they form a marine still life that was composed in Patek Philippe’s design department and implemented in the manufacture’s ateliers according to venerable traditions. It shows blue sapphire fishes of various sizes that swim in an ocean of diamonds.

Patek Philippe Twenty~4 ®Haute Joaillerie "Aquatic Life" Ref. 4909/110

Closed-set baguette diamonds beam on the gently inclined flanks of the 18K white gold case and bracelet. The diamonds in the case are arranged in subtle fan-shaped pattern, which made it necessary to cut every single one to a shape corresponding to its exact location. The baguette diamonds on the upper side of the bracelet and on the dial are invisibly set.

The invisible setting is considered one of the most challenging techniques and from the gemsetter’s point of view the most risk-fraught way to set gems.

To make sure all stones are seamlessly joined side-by-side and neither parts of the setting nor the white gold of the case and bracelet can shine through between them, the lapidary must grind a narrow groove into the facet on the underside of each diamond baguette. The counterpart of each groove is a delicate gold clip raised out of the bracelet and case which clamps the precious stone and secures it in its place.

The positions of the countless clips and of the delicate grooves in the diamonds must correspond to fractions of a millimeter to assure that in the end, the set stones are perfectly adjacent to one another. Each of the blue fishes fashioned from rich-blue sapphires is then applied on this sea of diamonds.

The smaller ones are navette-cut sapphire solitaires with a closed rose-gold setting. The larger ones are composed of many small brilliant-cut sapphires held by rose-gold bead settings arranged to depict the contours of the fishes and their speckles.

Because fine white diamonds lie beneath these sapphires, the light can easily shine through their blue body colour from below, thus amplifying their colour intensity and brilliance. Additionally, 855 small brilliant-cut diamonds totalling approximately 1.7 ct. glisten vibrantly between the links of the bracelet.

The lavishly finished caliber 16-250 is a manually wound mechanical movement that proudly reveals itself through the case back. The two bridges and the balance cock feature round-chamfered and polished edges. Their surfaces are adorned with Geneva striping.

Gleaming red bearing jewels provide colorful accents while the balance, the center wheel, and the engravings on the bridges emanate a golden sheen.

But above all, it is a mechanical movement crafted to the finest watchmaking standards, one which showcases its functionality: the balance, that vibrates 28,800 times an hour (4 Hz) and with an anchor-shaped lever transmits each semi-oscillation to the escape wheel, which in turn transmits each impulse via the fourth wheel to the third wheel and then to the center and hour wheels that carry the minute and hour hands.

The two baton-style hands and the applied Roman numerals at XII and IV in 18K rose gold are typical design features of Patek Philippe’s iconic Twenty~4® ladies’ watch collection.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Twenty~4® Small Haute Joaillerie Watch, Ref. 4909/110 in 18K white gold

Movement
Caliber 16-250
Manually wound mechanical movement
Diameter: 16.3 mm
Height: 2.5 mm
Number of parts:  101
Number of jewels:  18
Power reserve:  Min. 38 hours
Balance: Smooth rim
Frequency:  28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring:  Flat
Balance spring stud:  Adjustable

Functions
Two-position crown:
– Pulled out: To set the time
– Pushed in: To wind the watch

Displays
Center hour and minute hands

Hallmark
Patek Philippe Seal

Case
18K white gold
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water-resistant to 30 meters

Case dimensions
Length (6 to 12 o’clock): 27.80 mm
Width (3 to 9 o’clock): 24 mm
Overall thickness: 7.50 mm
Thickness crystal to back: 7.20 mm
Width between lugs: 13 mm

Dial
18K white gold, fully paved
Baton-style hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold
2 applied Roman numerals in 18K rose gold at 12 and 6 o’clock

Precious stones
1937 flawless Top Wesselton baguette diamonds and sapphires  totaling approx. 43.73 ct.
– Case:  46 closed-set flawless Top Wesselton baguette diamonds totaling approx. 3.97 ct.
– Dial:  41 invisibly set flawless Top Wesselton baguette diamonds totaling approx. 1.97 ct. 2 closed-set navette-cut sapphires totaling approx. 0.07 ct. and 32 bead-set sapphires totaling approx. 0.12 ct.
– Bracelet:  694 closed-set flawless Top Wesselton baguette diamonds totaling approx. 30.81 ct., 855 closed-set brilliant-cut diamonds totaling approx. 1.7 ct., 31 closed-set navette-cut sapphires totaling approx. 3.48 ct., and 236 bead-set sapphires totaling approx. 1.63 ct.

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