Swiss luxury watch brand CHOPARD unveils Perpetual T, an exceptional complication timepiece from its L.U.C. range offering the complexity of precious horological complications and the superlative refinement of its decorations. This novelty timepiece, together with its discreet sophistication, sums up the highest standards integral to the legacy of Louis-Ulysse Chopard.
In this timepiece, an elegant tourbillon complication rubs shoulders with an extremely readable perpetual calendar in a watch characterised by its elaborate aesthetic appeal. Chronometer-certified for precision and bearing the Poinçon de Genève for the quality of its craftsmanship, the Perpetual T is more than a mere demonstration of watchmaking mastery. It is a distinguished and functional watch designed for daily living.
With the L.U.C Perpetual T, Chopard presents one of the most prestigious combinations in watchmaking. The perpetual calendar and the tourbillon along with more than one-week of operating autonomy, cement this new timepiece firmly among the horological aristocracy. In watchmaking, such nobility is acquired by a mastery of technical complexity allied with a dedication to achieving a supremely satisfying aesthetic effect.
Making a perpetual calendar involves both technical and ergonomic issues. Displaying the complete date while taking account of the variable lengths of months, including in leap years, is a constant challenge ably met by L.U.C Calibre 02.15-L. Moreover, the multiple indications on the dial of such models can be detrimental to their readability and a strategic layout is crucial to legibility.
The Perpetual T brings the date to the foreground in the shape of a large twin-aperture date display. At 9 o’clock, the day of the week takes precedence over a day/night indication; while the months share the 3 o’clock space with the leap-year cycle. Moreover, the quest for ergonomics and thus user friendliness goes beyond readability. With the four barrels of the Quattro system, the Perpetual T has a nine-day power reserve, meaning there is no need to worry about repeatedly adjusting the time or date. So as not to overload the dial, the power-reserve indicator appears on the reverse side of the watch and can be read through a transparent sapphire crystal case-back.
The tourbillon of the Perpetual T sits enthroned at 6 o’clock, topped by a steel bridge meticulously polished to a mirror finish. By its constant rotation around its axis, it enables the rate of the watch to elude the effects of gravity. Each Perpetual T successfully passesthe trials conducted by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute. The COSC tests the rating precision and issues its timekeeping certificate only for watches that meet its established tolerances. Chopard, which regularly submits its watches at the International Chronometry Competition in Le Locle, thereby offers concrete proof that the tourbillon of its L.U.C Perpetual T does indeed accomplish its mission and the ‘Chronometer’ inscription on the dial is a discreet reminder of its high-precision timing capabilities.
The 43 mm-diameter rose gold case of the Perpetual T frames a solid gold dial adorned with a hand-cut guilloché motif radiating out from the large date and crossing through the applied Roman numerals marking off the hours. The slate grey counters of the perpetual calendar are also guilloché-worked in order to distinguish between the functions and accentuate the contrasts. When it comes to watches, inner beauty is an equally important virtue.
The entire L.U.C Calibre 02.15-L has thus been hand-decorated in accordance with the finest watchmaking traditions. The plates are circular-grained, the screws are polished, the bridges are bevelled and adorned with a vertical Côtes de Genève motif and the jewels are set into gold chatons. These parts are all patiently polished and smoothed down by hand. The quality of these treatments combined with the specific technical and design choices involved in its development enable the L.U.C Perpetual T to earn the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, the most prestigious Swiss watch industry certification.
The L.U.C approach consists in a quest for excellence encompassing all aspects of the watch. An elegant complication model featuring the precision and the kinematic appeal of the tourbillon, the Perpetual T is made to be admired and worn. Its COSC and Poinçon de Genève certification testify to the high standards governing Chopard’s production of its prestigious watches. While naturally rare due to the sheer complexity of crafting it, the Perpetual T is nonetheless not a limited edition. It is taking its place firmly and securelyat the peak of the L.U.C ranges.
Chopard is a family-owned company imbued with a strong sense of independence. The various stages involved in making L.U.C watches are conducted within the group’s own production sites in Meyrin and Fleurier. Movement development; design of the finished product; gold casting; stamping and machining of cases, movement parts and bracelets; traditional hand-crafted decorations; surface treatments; polishing; assembly; adjustment and quality control: this entire range of watch production operations is fully mastered in-house by Chopard and applied to the creation of each L.U.C watch.
Model: CHOPARD L.U.C Perpetual T
Ref. 161940-5001 – In 18-carat rose gold
• 18-carat rose gold
• Total diameter: 43.00 mm
• Thickness: 14.90 mm
• Water resistance: 30 m
• 18-carat rose gold crown with L.U.C logo: 6.50 mm
• Glare proofed sapphire crystal
• Transparent exhibition back
• Mechanical L.U.C 02.15-L
• Diameter: 33.00 mm
• Thickness: 9.35 mm
• Number of jewels: 31
• Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
• Power reserve: 216 hours, meaning 9 days
• Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève
• Chronometer-certified by the COSC
• Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark
Dial and hands
• 18-carat gold hand-guilloché dial
• Slate grey snailed counters
• Gold-toned hour, minute, day, month and small seconds hands, and hour-markers
• Triangular day/night and year indications
Functions and displays
• Central display of the hours and minutes
• Small seconds at 6 o’clock
• Large date at 12 o’clock
• Perpetual calendar
• Power-reverse indicator on the back
Strap and buckle
• Hand-sewn brown alligator leather strap with cognac-coloured alligator lining
• 18-carat rose gold pin buckle