Arrayed in a glittering wrap of gems, the latest model in the Corum Admiral’s Cup Legend 38 line appears in a High Jewelry version. Diamonds and sapphires play a fascinating musical score, backed by a symphony orchestrated around 1,444 stones totaling 11.56 carats. This high jewellery timepiece features the hand-crafted invisible and snow-setting techniques, showcased in a masterful execution.
Once each part of the watch to be set – dial, bezel, case, oscillating weight, bracelet and buckle – was meticulously prepared in keeping with the rules of the art, the gem-setting work as such could begin. The dial is more alluring, thanks for incorporating one of the most demanding techniques: invisible setting. The complexity was further heightened by the need to reinterpret this technique in order to set the 462 stones composing the floral dial motif. This was because the smallest stones – the dial alone features seven different sizes – might have been broken if the classic method has been used: namely cutting a notch into the gem to accommodate the seating that was to support it. The artisan therefore innovated by initially fitting the dial upside down on a transparent plate, before meticulously pouring a silver-based alloy over the structure.
By seeping into the tiniest gaps between the stones, the matter thereby solidly holds together the 24 baguette-cut purple sapphires (approx. 2.04 cts), 138 baguette-cut diamonds (approx. 3.11 cts), 108 baguette-cut pink sapphires (approx. 1.67 cts) and 198 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.25 cts). These stones, having thus become a plate, could then be removed from the transparent backing. After a final polishing to eliminate any traced of impurity, this precious plate could at last be fitted on the white gold dial, thereby unleashing the full radiance of the gems beneath which the underlying metal structure has completely vanished.
The case and bracelet are adorned by means of another technique: snow setting. No less than 804 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 3.79 cts) merge into each other, playing on their varying diameters to entirely carpet the 18K white gold of the case, bezel, lugs and crown. Embodying a wealth of patience and expertise, the bracelet secured by a folding clasp also comes in a snow-set version featuring entirely hand-crafted white diamond flakes in 10 different sizes exquisitely embracing the curve of the wrist.
While only a handful of virtuoso craftsmen are capable of performing the gemsetting work enhancing the Admiral’s Cup Legend 38, these impressive skills are matched by the horological excellence within. This model is driven by a mechanical automatic movement, Caliber CO 082 – an equally unusual feat for a jewelry watch.
The dial has chosen to reveal only essentials, marking off the hours and minutes to the beat of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). Through the sapphire caseback, this fine mechanism with its 42-hour power reserve reveals its most distinctive feature: an entirely gemset white gold oscillating weight. The latter represents an extremely rare challenge due to the stunning complexity of such an endeavor on a rotor, which is part of the functional movement components.
This uncompromising aesthetic approach features 71 pink sapphires (approx. 0.23 cts), 14 purple sapphires (approx. 0.05 cts) and 73 diamonds (approx. 0.21 cts) reproducing the floral dial motif. Further sublimating these delicate petals and corollas, hand-crafted engravings around the white gold circumference of the caseback further accentuate the inspired refinement of this creation.
The Admiral’s Cup Legend 38 by CORUM is available with a white crocodile leather strap fitted with a white gold folding clasp set with 20 diamonds (approx. 0.21 cts).
ADMIRAL’S CUP LEGEND 38 Jewellery Version
Ref A082/02058 – 082.109.69/0F09 FL10
Limited Edition: 5 pieces
Movement number: CO 082
Winding system: Automatic
Functions: Minute/ Hour
Power reserve: 42 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz, 28’800 vph
Dimension: 11 1/2”’
Rotor in 18kt white gold, set with 71 rose sapphires (~0.23ct), 14 violet sapphires (~0.05ct) and 73 round diamonds (~0.21ct)
Material: 18kt gold
24 Baguette violet sapphires ~ 2.04 ct
108 Baguette rose sapphires ~ 1.67 ct
138 Baguette diamonds ~ 3.11 ct
192 Round diamonds ~ 0.25 ct
Distinctive features: CORUM logo transferred under the sapphire glass
Hour and minute: Baton • Rhodium-coated • Faceted • Skeleton
Dimension: 38 mm
Thickness: 10.30 mm
Case material: 18kt white gold; 605 Round diamonds ~ 2.27 ct
Bezel material: 18kt white gold; 132 Round diamonds ~ 1.45 ct
Crown material: 18kt white gold; 67 Round diamonds ~ 0.07 ct
Crystal: Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment
Back type: Screwed in open back cover in 18kt white gold with glare proof sapphire crystal
Back finishes: Engraved CORUM logo
Water-resistance: 30 meters / 3 ATM
Material: Crocodile leather
Interhorn/Buckle: 19/15 mm
Buckle type: Triple folding clasp; 20 Round diamonds ~ 0.21 ct
Buckle material: 18kt white gold
Buckle distinctive features: Engraved CORUM logo; Opening and fastening system using 2 pushers