Swedish mechanical watch brand Gustafsson & Sjögren(GoS) Watches has announced their new series – Winter Nights – a 10 piece limited collection of watches that are produced in collaboration with PuristSPro. These are the first GoS watches to feature the brand new manually wound manufacture Braun/GoS movement with a 4/5 bridge in solid hand-forged Damascus steel. The partnership between master bladesmith Johan Gustafsson and watchmaker Patrik Sjögren aims to provide truly unique watches, inspired by the cold north of Scandinavia and the ancient Swedish tradition in metallurgy.
The new GoS movement featuring intricate Damascus steel pattern has been developed in collaboration with Martin Braun (of Antoine Martin/MHO). They have created a 4/5-bridge and a balance cock made from one piece of solid hand-forged Damascus steel. This movement combines Martin Braun’s attention to detail and long experience as a movement manufacturer with the craftsmanship and aesthetics of the GoS team. The caliber includes Martin Braun’s HPE innovation in the use of Silicium in the escape mechanism to not only extend the service intervals but also increase the overall effectiveness of the mechanism compared to a conventional design.
Patrik Sjögren finishes the movement parts made from Damascus steel to give a good balance between the raw Damascus steel surface and the traditionally high-gloss polished bevelled edges. Finishing Damascus steel is very labour intensive as every part is polished, bevelled and etched several times to achieve the final result. The Damascus steel in the Winter Nights GoS movement is forged into the traditional woodgrain pattern, also known as the ladder pattern. This is one of the oldest known damascus steel patterns and is still considered to be one of the most beautiful and expressive patterns.
GoS draws inspiration from Nordic nature and traditions and the Winter Nights is no exception – as it is connected to both sources of inspiration. During the cold and clear winter nights the chances of seeing the spectacular northern lights are the highest and the swirling patterns of the Winter Nights dial is reminiscent of the rapidly changing shapes of the northern lights.
Winter Nights – Uncolored dial with 18K gold hands
Winter Nights, “Vinternätter” in Swedish, is also the name of an ancient festival that was first celebrated in pre- Christian Scandinavia. The festival marked the end of summer, the start of the winter, and the beginning of a new year. It was a harvest feast and also a time for honoring the ancestral spirits, the spirits of the land, and the powers of fruitfulness, wisdom, and death. The exact dates varied with the regional weather but it usually occurred during the month of October. This heathen tradition was later transformed into what is now called the “All Hallows’ Eve” and “All Saints’ Day”.
The basic element of all watches from Gustafsson & Sjögren is the hand-forged pattern welded steel, also known as Damascus steel. Johan Gustafsson applies a true folded Damascus steel technique to layers of high grade Swedish tool steels. They use 128 layers in most GoS dials. The Winter Nights dials are hand forged into a pattern which Johan Gustafsson in 2010 and named Wildflower. Wildflower is semi-symmetrical and has a definite center point, which makes it very suitable for watch dials. Customers can select a dial in natural steel or tempered coloured to a blue/purple nuance. Furthermore, the hands can be either white gold or yellow gold.
Watch series – Winter Nights
Case: Stainless steel and stainless Damascus steel 45mm × 12.5mm (10atm)
Lug width: 22mm
Glass: Flat sapphire glass with AR coating and the GoS logo printed on the inside
Movement: GoS manufacture caliber
Dial: Hand-forged Damascus steel in Johan Gustafsson’s Wildflower pattern
Index ring/rehaut: Solid gold, shaped and polished by hand
Hands: Solid gold shaped and polished by hand
Crown: 9mm in fine-grained stainless Damascus steel, heavily etched for good winding action, double-gasket crown inset
Case finishing: Stainless Damascus steel, high-gloss polish with GoS logo engraved on case side
Case Engraving: “Winter Nights” “for PuristS”
Strap: Handcrafted strap in soft Nubuck leather, fitted with a GoS stainless steel buckle Strictly limited to 10cs numbered from 1/10 to 10/10.
Damascus steel movement
GoS caliber 1, jointly developed by Martin Braun and Patrik Sjögren
Diameter: 36mm diameter
Power reserve: 72 hours
Modern escapement: Silicon escape wheel and anchor
Bridges in hand forged Damascus steel with a wood grain pattern
Power reserve indicator on back
Screwed Glucydur balance wheel
All wheels in the movement are polished according to the Geneva seal hallmark
Cyclovente teeth on wheels
Every movement will be unique as it is not possible to duplicate the hand-forged pattern
Individually crafted box using the svepask technique in birch wood
Coloured with natural pigments mixed in linseed oil
Covered with high-grade natural wax and polished to a deep finish
Protection box of black and grey card
Guarantee certificate, two years’ guarantee
The price for the Winter Nights watches is set to US$19,000, which is the same price as the GoS Nordic Seasons with the modified Unitas movement. Future GoS watches with the Damascus steel GoS movement will be priced considerably higher.
Purchases and option selections are administered by PuristSPro but communication of the production progress, detail discussions and the selection of the final dial for every watch is done directly with Patrik Sjögren or Johan Gustafsson. The watches will be produced in two batches were the first five ordered watches will be available for delivery during May/June 2013 and the second batch is scheduled for delivery in September 2013.