Manufactura 1528, one of the first two models from the Le Locle based Swiss luxury watch brand Julien Coudray 1518 aims to reinvent a classic: a “three-hands” manual winding watch indicating the hour, minute and seconds. These are supplemented by an uncommon function: a service indicator. In a discreet window at 12 o’clock, the enameled gold oil drop symbol will appear after four years in operation, when the watch must be serviced.
The fully redesigned movement is equipped with an exclusive escapement – developed, made and set in-house – whose frequency (28,800 vibrations/hour) makes for high precision. Each of the main movement parts has been machined from solid gold (of three different grades: yellow gold, red gold and palladium white gold) and from solid Pt 950 platinum, a material never previously worked in this way in the field of watchmaking. These components were then decorated by hand, as were the bridges visible via the sapphire case-back, the finely hand-engraved pattern on which was inspired by the repertoire of the Renaissance decorative arts.
The pattern on the dial is a modern interpretation of Renaissance church bell tower clocks. It was made from grand feu enamel, on a champlevé gold base with enamel backing, a technique requiring the enamel powder to be melted at over 800°C.
Model: Manufactura 1528
A limited series of 28 pieces per version, available in solid 18 carat gold, 2N yellow gold, 5N red gold, Pd 125 white gold or Pt 950 platinum.
Calibre JC 1528, diameter 13 ¼’’, made from solid 18 ct gold (2N yellow gold: 31 g; 5N red gold, Pd 125 white gold: 30 g) or solid Pt 950 platinum (41 g), with all components hand decorated, back hand-engraved with a decoration inspired by the Renaissance style
Manual winding, power reserve of more than 55 hours, 34 jewels
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/h, 4 Hz
Original escapement with gold balance
Solid 18 ct gold or Pt 950 platinum, made from the same metal as the movement
Dimensions: 39.00 mm / 9.85 mm
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coating, Sapphire case-back
Water resistance: 50 m (5 Atm)
13-part dial made from enamelled solid gold
Traditional grand feu enamel
Alligator on both faces, hand-stitched and beaded
18 mm ardillon buckle made from solid 18 ct gold or Pt 950 platinum, with engraved pictogram
Hour, minute, seconds
4-year service indicator