de GRISOGONO OTTURATORE

Imagined by Fawaz Gruosi and combining a dynamic display and improved legibility, the highly original OTTURATORE design raises the art of horological complications to a new level of inventive excellence. The center piece of this unprecedented creation –the first to be entirely developed and crafted in-house –is a high-performance mobile “sequencer” boasting three patented de GRISOGONO innovations. This groundbreaking model confirms de GRISOGONO’s determination to shun the beaten track in favour of genuine innovation.

A new concept in the de GRISOGONO style and spirit only makes sense if it embodies a good measure of bold design, refined aesthetics, expert workmanship and contemporary sophistication. This complex and demanding vision gave rise to the OTTURATORE, first introduced as a prototype in 2008, and available on the market since 2011 in five different models, two exclusive for the de GRISOGONO boutiques.

Radiating a contemporary baroque design expressed through superlative technical features, useful functions, subtle detailing and eye-catching displays, its stylish lines conceal an unusually complex and resolutely world-first sequential rotating dial mechanism. To give a concrete idea of the extremes embodied in this technology that truly takes timekeeping into a new dimension, the dial rotates 18 times faster than the blink of an eye (16/1000ths of a second compared with 3/10ths of a second); and the acceleration energy required (9G) is greater than that of a jet plane (8G).

Along with the hour and minute hands at the center, the OTTURATORE displays on demand the seconds, the date, the phases of the moon and the movement’s power reserve. Its greatest originality lies in the selective display of each of these separate indications. Classic Haute Horlogerie timepieces usually fit all their complications together on the dial, thereby detracting from the latter’s instant legibility. Fawaz Gruosi chose to simplify the dial layout for much improved clarity: thanks to the OTTURATORE’s mobile dial, the wearer chooses which indication he wants to consult and his OTTURATORE will display it, while hiding the three others from view.

Patented by de GRISOGONO, the OTTURATORE’s basic feature is a mobile clockwise-rotated dial operated simply by pressing a mechanical pushpiece. The increment of rotation of such a device depends on the number of complications or indications of the watch; the OTTURATORE’s increment of rotation is 90°. While the principle seems simple enough, its design is totally unprecedented: it propels watchmaking technology from the sphere of slow speeds to that of hyper velocities.

Until now, horological complications focused mainly on a specific function, usually a matter of actioning a simple sequence of gears or springs. The OTTURATORE truly embodies another dimension in time. A slight pressure on a push piece –whose travel is of the order of one millimeter –is enough to harness enough power to drive the mobile dial by 90° instantly. In a standard mechanical construction, a finger pressing a push piece for a brief instant exerts insufficient force to set in motion mechanical components with strong inertial resistance. The OTTURATORE’s sequential selector can achieve this because it can instantly action the various dynamic functions (controls, connecting and disconnecting operations, mechanical memory, gears and so forth) while taking into account power drain, inertia and friction.

The complex interplay of the movements involved generates counterforces, a bit like a car instantly accelerating to its top speed then immediately braking to a full stop with absolute precision on a predetermined line.

de GRISOGONO’s exclusive sequential display module comprises over 300 components. It includes its own mainspring and barrel providing the necessary reserve power and manually wound by pressing a mechanical pushpiece. A second, more traditional mainspring-and-barrel unit gives the movement a 42-hour power reserve.

Since innovative mechanical solutions call for contemporary Haute Horlogerie design, the OTTURATORE’s substantial cambered rectangular case features a pair of large pushpieces, as well as a crown engraved with the signature de GRISOGONOcrest. The dial designed in three parts specifically highlights de GRISOGONO’s novel approach to time displays. Its exclusive design is notable for its contrasts and plurality of levels.

The case’s very contemporary character contrasts elegantly with a cobbled “Clous de Paris” pattern in the grand tradition, as do the finely proportioned “dauphine” style hour and minute hands with the strict geometry of the case. The “hidden face” of de GRISOGONO’s new design is protected by a cambered sapphire crystal, revealing a blackened movement and traditional decorative motifs characteristic of complex watchmaking. The transparent case back provides a revealing look at the heart of a timepiece that sets pioneering standards of elegance in luxury, innovation in refinement and excellence in performance.

The development of the sequential display selector proved such a challenge that de GRISOGONO’s research team had to resort to innovative, sophisticated techniques such as simulation and numerical calculations. Adding mathematics to software to apply physical laws, techniques of this kind are commonly used in the research labs of the aeronautics and automotive industries. Using models incorporating multiple variables, special programs of this kind serve to optimize mechanical operations and functions.

Were it not for them, designing the OTTURATORE would have been a hopeless task. The most expert watchmaker can of course gauge the movement of watch hands but he would be at a loss to master the dual relationships between fleeting mechanical functions lasting a few milliseconds.

The OTTURATORE’s unique design should be seen as an initial step in the development of a new generation of timepieces. Heralding a novel dimension in Haute Horlogerie design, the sequential selector patented by de GRISOGONO will inevitably appear in other applications that are bound to alter dramatically the world of horological complications.

Technical details
Movement
Caliber DR 19-89
Movement thickness: 9.80 mm
Movement dimensions: 31.4 x32.7 mm
Number of components: 574
Jewelling: 28 for the movement
Vibrations: 28,800 v.p.h., 4 hz
Power reserve: 42 hours

Indications
Hours, minutes, seconds, Date, moon phases and power reserve

Case
18K Rose or white gold, sapphire crystal and case back
Case dimensions
Opening: 31.20 mm x28.80 mm
Height: 50.16 mm
Width: 44.85 mm
Thickness: 15.86 mm
Distance between lugs: 11.00 mm
Water resistance: 50 meters (~100 feet)

Dial
In three parts, clou De Paris cobbled pattern, applied figures
Hands “Dauphine” style in18K Rose or white gold

Strap
Genuine alligator
Clasp de Grisogono folding clasp in18K Rose or white gold

Models

  • OTTURATORE N01 – SATIN POLISHED ROSE GOLD – SILVER DIAL
  • OTTURATORE N02 – SATIN POLISHED WHITE GOLD – BLACK DIAL
  • OTTURATORE N03 – SATIN POLISHED ROSE GOLD – BLACK DIAL

Boutique Exclusivity, Limited Edition & Numbered (55 Timepieces)
– OTTURATORE N04 – SATIN POLISHED ROSE GOLD – BROWN DIAL
– OTTURATORE N05 – SATIN POLISHED WHITE GOLD – RUTHENIUM DIAL

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