H. Moser & Cie. Perpetual Golden Edition

In 2006, the Legendary Swiss watch brand H. Moser & Cie introduced the award winning Moser Perpetual 1 timepiece as the world’s first watch featuring Flash Calendar. It is still the only watch with a perpetual calendar which can be accessed with consummate ease and only via the crown, and without even having to read the operating instructions. No restrictions whatsoever hamper the adjustment of the calendar forwards or backwards. Not even when the watch itself is on the point of advancing to the next day. Taken together with all its other functions, this watch is still without parallel anywhere in the world.

This year, the brand unveils a limited special edition of 100 pieces of Perpetual model in the form of the PERPETUAL GOLDEN EDITION. The case, double Hairspring escapement, the pallet fork and the escapement wheel of the interchangeable escapement module and the weight compensation screws of the Glucydur balance are made from solid gold.

The extraordinary perpetual calendar from Moser and the Double Hairspring escapement are enhanced with value retaining 18-carat rose gold as the material for the plate and bridges of the movement. In other words, a solid gold movement, complemented by mirror-finished steel components which could not be replaced by gold for reasons of functionality. This provides a highly attractive contrast to the matt-finished surface of the gold bridges and is further supplemented by the extremely intricate, and as such rare, hand-chamfering of the gold bridges. This can only be appreciated with the knowledge that the watchmaker has facetted and polished the edges by hand all the way into the smallest corners. Consequently there is no rounding, and it becomes evident – although only under a loupe – that the polishing of the edges tapers away into the corners. The Moser company seal, used as a symbol of excellent quality and authenticity for 185 years, is incidentally also engraved by hand in this movement.

A further superlative is visible on the movement even without using a loupe. The MOSER PERPETUAL GOLDEN EDITION is the first watch in the world to have a genuine, functional diamond end stone in the Incabloc shock-absorber. In fact, there is one on either side of the shock-absorber, even if only the stone on the movement side is visible. The jewel bearings under the end stone are also an embodiment of pure understatement. They are manufactured not from red rubies, in the conventional way, but from white sapphire. Otherwise, a red glow would emanate from the underlying jewel bearing.

The hour appliques markers of dial and all the hands are made of solid gold. And, in the best traditions of Moser, while the Double Hairspring escapement of the watch ensures that no gravitational error can occur, the dial has handcrafted fumé shading.

The perpetual calendar can be adjusted forwards and backwards at any time, and which changes within less than one second – even when it advances directly from 28 February to 1 March – represents watchmaking at the very highest level. This watch embodies everything that H. Moser & Cie stands for. Its appearance is elegant with a touch of understatement, and the unbelievable complexity of the inhouse movements only becomes apparent on closer inspection. Two spring barrels, true bevel wheels for gentle, low-wear winding, a guaranteed 7-day power reserve, the patented Double Pull Crown system, and screwed gold mounts together with the Moser tooth system in the entire wheel train clearly demonstrate what Moser understands as traditional watchmaking. Authenticity and exclusivity down to the smallest detail and the resolve not to source parts from high-volume production of any kind. The sapphire crystal back enables us to view the beauty of complex in-house movements.

Technical details
Ref. 341.101-008: H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Golden Edition (Three-part designer case in rose gold, alligator leather strap with a rose gold folding clasp in a limited edition of 100 pieces.)

Exterior
– Three part rose gold designer case
– Solid gold dial, hand-crafted gold fumé surface
– Hour Appliques in 18-carat rose gold
– Solid gold hands
– Sapphire crystal with internal antireflective coating
– See-through shaped sapphire crystal back with internal antireflective coating
– Alligator leather strap with solid gold folding clasp

Movement details
– Gold hand wound movement special edition
– Plate and bridges made of solid rose gold
– Classic matt-finished surfaces
– Hand chamfering into the corners
– Hand-engraved company seal
– Screwed gold mounts
– Moser tooth system for all wheels and pinions
– Winding system with dual spring barrel
– True bevel wheels for transmitting the winding motion
– Double Pull Crown (DPC) winding system, with two fixed stops for the date and time adjustment positions
– Guaranteed 7-day power reserve
– Power reserve display at 9 o’clock

Perpetual calendar
– Large, permanently centred date at 3 o’clock
– Month display from the centre via the hour indices
– Calendar adjustable forwards and backwards, without restriction at any time via the crown including provision for the leap year
– Leap year display on the movement side, adjustable via a pin pusher at 9 o’clock
– Flash Calendar function
– All calendar functions are changed by the watch within 1 second
– Direct changing from the end of the month to the first day of the following month, taking into account the length of the respective month

– Interchangeable escapement module
– Retained in the movement by only 2 screws
– Security lock to prevent the movement from running down
– Greater accuracy thanks to the double hairspring escapement with two Straumann hairsprings
– Pallet fork and escapement wheel made of solid gold
– Lateral pallet fork
– Dragon lever for precision adjustment
– Traditional Glucydur screw balance
› White gold weight screws
› Steel regulating screws in a slotted threaded hole
– Two functional diamond end stones, integrated for the first time into an Incabloc sapphire shock-absorber
– Seconds stop function
› Stopping the watch with the crown in the time adjustment position
› Stopping the watch for date adjustments is not necessary