The Tutima Hommage Minute Repeater represents the iconic German watch manufacture’s return to Glashütte, as the company has restarted its manufacturing operations in this historical town, which is the epicenter of German traditional watchmaking since 1845.
Tutima Hommage Minute Repeater is available in rose gold, limited edition of 20 pieces, 5 versions with a narrow ring around the perimeter instead of a full dial and in platinum, limited to 5 pieces.
Minute repeater complication, known as the crown jewel of complicated watches comprises a multitude of filigreed individual parts, the functional interaction of which is the result of tedious, delicate regulation work. This applies not only to the mechanical and kinetic processes, but also to the optimization of the acoustic characteristics of the sonorous elements.
There have been several quarter or minute repeating pocket watches produced over the course of the 165-year history of Glashütte, but never before has the entire repeating mechanism been designed and developed in the town.
Up to this point in Glashütte’s history, its watchmakers have utilized ébauches from the Vallée de Joux that were finished and decorated according to their requirements. The Tutima Hommage is considered as the first real full Glashütte minute repeater that is entirely designed and manufactured in the cradle of traditional watch making of Germany.
The movement and case were created during a three-year-long development period under the supervision of Rolf Lang. With 47 years of professional experience as a movement designer and apprentice instructor in the Glashütte watch industry, Lang put together a team comprising experienced and particularly talented watchmakers, who matured within the demands of the project to become masters of their craft.
The solid gold dial of the Hommage minute repeater reveals nothing of its highly complicated insides. Reservedly and elegantly, it displays the hours and minutes as well as unusually large subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock. The two-part hands are lovingly handcrafted from solid gold or blued steel, making each one unique.
The transparent case back allows the observer an unobstructed view of the finely finished movement with its distinctive three-quarter plate so typical of phase-two Glashütte pocket watch movements. The plate’s large surface area is matte gold-plated according to the custom at the time, even though it is far more difficult to achieve its regular, finely grained structure than a decorative finish.
All bearing jewels are set in countersunk, screw-mounted gold chatons. Both winding wheels have been given the classic Glashütte sunburst polish and are outfitted with a special click with charmingly curved steel springs. The escape wheel of the minute repeater is held by a steel cage recessed into the base plate, which gleams like all the other polished movement components with mirror polishing and razor-sharp beveling.
The balance cock bears a hand-carved relief engraving in the form of a clef note. The balance outfitted with 14 gold balance screws and four adjustment screws oscillates at a frequency of 21,600 vph (semi-oscillations per hour) and is outfitted with a free-sprung Breguet hairspring with a special terminal curve.
The threaded holes of the balance wheel have been deliberately designed to be close to one another and slotted lengthways so that the regulating screws are slightly spring-loaded and securely fitted to protect them from accidentally moving out of position.
The two mirror-polished hammers rhythmically striking the hours, quarter hours and minutes that have passed since noon or midnight form a particular eye-catcher. The gongs are not attached to the movement as would be standard practice, but to the watch case for improved richness and clarity of tone. Thanks to extremely careful tuning, both gongs crafted in a special steel alloy are based upon concert pitch A (for the hours) and high C (for the minutes). They are spaced by a major third, which provides an especially harmonious effect when the double tone of the quarter hours sounds.
The Tutima Hommage minute repeater comprises a total of more than 550 components, most of which remain hidden from the eyes of the observer. Available in ten different variations, the architectural design and aesthetic finishing of the repeater mechanism are perfectly framed by a narrow dial ring.
All levers, springs, racks and snail cams are extravagantly beveled by hand and their surfaces high polished on tin plates by hand according to the best traditions of the Glashütte art of watchmaking at the end of the nineteenth century. The effort expended on the finishing of this movement allows a comparison to the finest finished movements that Germany and Switzerland have to offer.
The center of each of the gold-plated gear wheels possesses a machine turned surface created by a diamond-tipped graver called the “mirror.” Every secured steel spring or cock is fitted with two hardened and polished steady pins, and naturally the edges of the corresponding milled holes are carefully beveled and polished – as are all the milled holes on the base plate.
All screw heads are also polished (and not blued) and both their slits and bodies are also sharply beveled. Even the filigreed edges of the hardened steel pallet lever are meticulously beveled by hand, while the pallets made of synthetic ruby boast gently domed and polished surfaces. This form of detailed work has not been seen since the middle of the nineteenth century.
By presenting Hommage Minute Repeater, Tutima owner Dieter Delecate and master watchmaker Rolf Lang along with their team proudly honours company founder Dr. Ernst Kurtz, whose visionary farsightedness allowed Glashütte’s watch making industry to survive the world economic crisis of the 1920s.
Suggested retail price of Tutima Hommage Minute Repeater is € 168,000 for rose gold models and € 179,000 for platinum model.
Model: Tutima Hommage Minute Repeater
Movement: Mechanical with hand winding
Diameter: 32 mm
Height: 7.2 mm
Jewels: 42, three of which are set in screw-mounted gold chatons
Escapement: Screw balance with 14 gold weighted screws and 4 regulating screws in slotted, threaded holes; free-sprung Breguet hairspring, pallet lever with domed pallets
Balance frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hertz)
Power reserve: 72 hours
Gold-plated, matte flat parts; Glashütte three-quarter plate; hand-engraved balance cock with relief engraving; winding wheels with click and sunburst polishing, all 550 movement parts hand-finished, all additional parts for the minute repeater bear a Glashütte tin-polished mirror surface.
Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds, hour, quarter hour and minute repeater on two gongs spaced by a third and secured to the watch case for optimal sound quality.
Rose gold or platinum, ø 43 mm, height 13.4 mm; anti-reflective coating on both sides of the sapphire crystal; case back with Tutima logo and sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.
Solid gold, finely silver-plated (for the platinum and five of the rose gold versions reduced to a narrow ring around the perimeter); handcrafted hands in gold or blued steel.
Alligator skin, buckle in rose gold or platinum.
In rose gold, limited edition of 20 pieces, 5 versions with a narrow ring around the perimeter instead of a full dial (€ 168,000). In platinum, limited to 5 pieces (€ 179,000).