With the Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon, first released in 2010, Swiss watch brand DeWitt took a major step forward as the calibre DW8028 was its first entirely home-made Tourbillon movement. A landmark in the history of the brand showcasing yet again the depth of its know-how and its autonomy. This year, DeWitt is releasing its second 100% Manufacture movement with the DW8014. A stunning automatic Tourbillon with a peripheral oscillating rotor, a dead-beat second, and a patented Automatic Sequential Winding (A.S.W.) system.
The DeWitt calibre DW8028 is a manually wound movement integrating a solid and reliable Tourbillon mechanism. Its construction is rather classical, using age-old and recognized technical parameters as a basis: 18’000 A/h, 72 hours power reserve. The movement is equipped with a Swiss anchor escapement with a variable-inertia balance and a spiral with a Breguet curve sequenced at 2.5 Hz. The balance, as well as the escape wheel and the anchor are made of 18 carat yellow gold.
The Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon fully complies with the very demanding finishing norms of the DeWitt Manufacture. Entirely hand-made, the finishing is here of a rare quality and can be observed through the sapphire crystal back. Meticulously angled, polished and satin-finished, the barrel and cage-bridges are finely decorated with Côtes de Genève. Also, two miniature “W” signatures are to be found on the crown and on the golden buckle.
A little plate, bearing the signature of the master watchmaker and placed on the barrel-bridge, further witnesses the pride and affection put into the creation of each timepiece. A direct connection is therefore established between the client and the watchmaker behind his work of art. Indeed, one particularity of DeWitt, so essential to the final quality achieved for the product, is that every watch is entirely assembled, adjusted and tested by a single master watchmaker, from A to Z.
The dial of the Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon is all about duality! On the upper part, a set of columns compose a very masculine and imposing Art Deco construction with a futuristic touch. It also sends us the image of the front of a powerful 1930’s steam engine. The lower part of the dial opens up into a large and beautiful circle symbolizing wholeness, the infinite nature of energy and… female power. However large the opening, the entrance into the heart of the beating movement is protected by a semi-transparent grille that only intrigues us more on what is happening inside.
The underlying pattern represented on the dial is a large radiating sunray that reaches right out to the sides. It is divided in two different colour zones as the Roman and Arabic numerals are placed on a Rhodium or Palladium circular applique that embraces the whole dial.
For a perfect balance and because the Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon is all about duality, only two hands (hours and minutes) are positioned in the centre of the dial in the shape of swards. Two little “children” appliques, each bearing shiny rings, were finally placed at 3 and 9 o’clock.
The Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon is a “classically audacious” masterpiece with a 43 mm round case made in 18 carat white or rose gold and presents particularly comfortable proportions. Offering a subtle combination of character and refinement, the design of the Twenty-8-Eight collection is sober and balanced. Presenting a slightly thinner case (10,28 mm) than the Academia collection as well as more discrete columns on its flanks, the Twenty-8-Eight collection gives a fascinating impression of lightness.
The bezel is particularly interesting as its polished and satin-finished columns provide eye-catching reflections. Elegant and streamlined lugs achieve to complete the design with perfect proportions and offer a remarkable comfort of wearing. However, the strong DNA, so characteristic of DeWitt watches, remains fully recognizable.
Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon Novelties 2011
Rose Gold & Black – Ref. T8.TH.53.004: A warm and welcoming atmosphere with a black-anthracite face that gracefully contrasts with a light, creamy-couloured circle applique in Palladium. Numerals, hands and central construction in rose gold.
White Gold & Mysterious Blue – Ref. T8.TH.48.005: More than any other, this variation is all about light and reflections. Not twice in the same day will it display the same blue! The centre displays a darker, “galvanic” blue, whereas the circle applique presents more turquoise, “rhodium” blue tonalities. Rhodium plated numerals and hands.
White Gold & Opaline Silver – Ref. T8.TH.48.006: A bright, summery variation that plays with silver tonalities. The centre, in a subtle silvery opaline colour is surrounded by a slightly more intense silver applique in Palladium. Numerals, hands and central construction are rhodium plated.
Movement: Mechanical manually wound movement integrating a Tourbillon manufactured by DeWitt
Functions: Hours, minutes
Power reserve: 72 hours
Vibrations: 18’000 A/h
Balance: Variable-inertia balance
Spiral: Spiral with Breguet curve sequenced at 2.5 Hz.
Escapement: 440 angle of lift
Jewelling: 19 jewels
Diameter: 14,6’’ (33 mm)
Total height: 7,45 mm
Number of components: 185
Round-shaped, adorned with DeWitt’s imperial columns pattern on the flanks
Material: 18-carat white or rose gold
Diameter: 43 mm
Total thickness: 10,28 mm
Crown:18-carat white or rose gold polished crown adorned with a ring made in blackened titanium featuring the “W” signature
Distance between lugs:21 mm
Case back: Sapphire crystal, secured with screws
Water-resistance: 30 meters
Dial & Hands
Dial: Central construction composed of columns and opening up into a large circle embracing the Tourbillon movement. Semi-transparent grille reducing the opening. Large radiating sunray pattern divided in two colour tonalities. Rhodium or Palladium circular applique at the perimeter on which Roman and Arabic numerals are placed. Two “children” appliques at 3 and 9 o’clock.
Hands: Hours and Minutes: Open-worked hands in the shape of two-edged swords
Alligator leather in different colour tonalities
Buckle: 18-carat white or rose gold, triple blade folding clasp, polished, engraved “W” signature