Ever since 1919, Milus has stood for outstanding Swiss watchmaking art combined with mechanical finesse, exclusivity and a brilliant interaction of unique language of form and the most precious materials. Milus’ philosophy is based on combining movement and changeability in its outstanding timepieces and jewellery items.
True to this principle, at this year’s Baselworld, Milus will be presenting the exquisite novelty TIRION Répétition Minutes TriRetrograde for the first time to the public. Through the combination of minute repetition and tri-retrograde function, Milus underlines, on the one hand, its watchmaking expertise and, on the other hand, the high art of developing a watch with an aesthetic and lasting language of form within its own company. After two years of intensive development, the traditional Biel company is launching this prestige watch as a limited edition of 50 pieces with own calibre. An extraordinary milestone in the corporate history of the Swiss watch brand.
Even today, manufacturing a minute repetition remains one of the major technical challenges in the art of watchmaking. Whilst this fine-sounding complication provided a useful function prior to the introduction of the electric light, today it enthuses experts and watch lovers through its unique complexity. Designed to indicate the time during the dark night-time hours, the minute repetition can, on demand, announce the hours, quarter-hours and minutes with a harmonious sound within the tiny dimensions of a wristwatch.
Pureness of tone and fullness of sound are the challenges faced by the experts. Every minute repetition manufactured is therefore presented as a masterpiece that is held in high esteem by watch connoisseurs thanks to the craftsman’s skills and precise attention to detail during manufacture. Long years of experience in the watchmaking art of minute repetition and a trained ear are indispensable for the production of this artefact.
For Milus, the launch of the TIRION Répétition Minutes TriRetrograde represents a significant step. With the complication minute repetition, combined with the fascinating play of the tri-retrograde seconds display that is characteristic of Milus, the company has achieved a high-precision and very ambitious timepiece in line with its philosophy and with an especially “highly personal” mark.
Over 400 individual parts of the clockwork movement are put together in excess of more than 140 hours of meticulous work by watchmakers of the highest reputation. Each component is decorated by hand and is tested repeatedly beforehand in terms of form and composition in order to optimise the sound quality and the functional precision of the watch. It is important to find the right balance between the lowest possible volume of the ticking minutes and as recognisable a sound as possible of the minute repetition. The aim is to create an unforgettable sound, a highly personal acoustic signature which reflects the extraordinary language of form of the watches from this traditional company.
The two steel hammers of the striking mechanism positioned on stainless steel bearings create a deep tone for the hours when triggering the minute repetition, a high and deep double strike for the quarter-hours and a high tone for the minutes. This is achieved by the hammers creating vibrations of the two gongs wound around the movement. To ensure a pure sound, the gongs must not touch one another. They are produced from a special steel alloy and connected to the same base. The major challenge for the experienced experts is the adjustment. The length of the gongs as well as the securing of the base to the bottom plate must be adjusted to the desired “a” and “c sharp” notes in several steps.
The uniquely curved minute-rack of the calibre has also been turned around and enlarged to achieve greater precision and pureness of tone. This gives the harmonious major-third unspoilt sound perfection. As every Milus TIRION Répétition Minutes TriRetrograde is manufactured by hand, minimum tone variations can occur here, thus giving each watch a very individual sound. Instead of the classic slide to activate the fascinating mechanism of the minute repetition, the Milus TIRION Répétition Minutes TriRetrograde is equipped with a push-piece at 9 o’clock with engraved clef. The flywheel, which regulates the striking rhythm and guarantees perfect time, can be observed through the sapphire viewing glass on the back of the watch.
Through the M08-35RM calibre certified by COSC and produced exclusively for the Milus TIRION Répétition Minutes TriRetrograde, Milus underlines its claim to watch models in an exceptionally high quality of craftsmanship. The latest micro-technical technologies and innovative materials guarantee optimum and low-friction functioning of the exceptional watch.
The use of silicon for pallet and pallet wheel contributes to higher precision and longevity of the minute repetition. With its double complication and a power reserve of 90 hours, the Milus TIRION Répétition Minutes TriRetrograde undoubtedly represents a technical milestone for the company. Building on from its decades of success, Milus thus again demonstrates its expertise in the high art of watchmaking.
The movement base of the Milus TIRION Répétition Minutes TriRetrograde is circular-grained, the bridges are finished with a sunray pattern and the steel parts are high-gloss polished with zinc in the old tradition way. A round, nine-part impressive case in 18K red gold 6N – the noble gold tone used at the beginning of the last century – with a diameter of 46 millimetres encloses the precious movement with its two barrels.
In the centre, the dial permits a clear view of the exclusive calibre and underlines the fascinating play of the three hands which spring back at 20-second intervals. Positioned at 6, 10 and 2 o’clock, the flying dance of the blued hands is completed with virtuoso ease. Once one of the hands has passed through its 20-second path, it jumps back to its original position whilst the next hand starts its journey. The date is indicated by a blued hand whose counterweight is designed in the form of the Milus sign. The hand-sewn strap in finest alligator leather rounds off the harmonious appearance of this prestigious watch.
Calibre Milus M08-35RM
Mechanical Swiss quality movement, hand-wound
Minute repetition, seconds retrograde in 3 sectors of up to 20 seconds each; date in the centre
Overall diameter calibre 32 mm
Height 8.11 mm
Number of parts 417
Number of stones (rubies) 47
Power reserve 90 hours
Frequency 3 hz
Minute repetition Hours, quarter-hours and minutes in major-third
Round case in 18K red gold 6N
Sapphire glass on front, round sapphire-glass viewing opening on back
Galvanic jacket in white; wave-shaped pattern, outer area with Arabic figures in blued steel as appliques, zone with date display, round, opened inner area with view of skeleton and the three bridges with the retrograde seconds display
Hands: Hours, minutes, seconds: hands in exclusive design from blued steel
Date: Hands with counterweight in the form of the Milus sign from blued steel
Minute repetition with deep sound on the hour, double sound (high and deep) on the quarter-hour and high sound for the minutes; date display, hour display, minute display, tri-retrograde seconds display with three 20-second sequences. Date in the centre
If the push-piece at 9 o’clock is pressed, the minutes, quarter-hours and hours sound; push-piece with engraved clef
Finest alligator leather, hand-sewn
Buckle Buckle or folding clasp in 18K red gold
Price On request