Behind the classic and uncluttered appearance of exterior of the new DB26 timepiece, hides a new manual winding mechanical perpetual calendar movement, the DB2005, wholly developed and produced in the DE BETHUNE manufacture.
At first glance, it is the sapphire hands surrounded by hand-blued steel which attract the eye. David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet, the founders of the brand, have conceived and designed hands of perfect transparency which enable the person wearing this timepiece to read all the indications displayed in the windows of this perpetual calendar with the greatest of ease.
Whatever the position of the hands, the date, the day and the month can be clearly read. In addition, the DE BETHUNE spherical moon rotating on its own axis at 3’o clock accurately indicates the phases of the celestial body. Consisting of two parts, one steel and the other platinum, this tiny sphere is flame-blued by hand. Next to it, a round window indicates the years of the leap-year cycle. As a further subtle touch, two blued steel indexes point to the month and the day in the windows for better visibility.
The pink or grey palladium gold plated case is 44.4 mm in diameter and has various special features which are revealed as soon as the watch is placed on the wrist. The moving cradles to which the strap is attached enable the timepiece to adapt itself perfectly to the size of its owner’s wrist. The winding crown is at 6 o’clock so as to form a perfect osmosis with the watch. The play of matt and brilliantly polished surfaces brings out all the subtle details of the case and the silvered dial.
This perpetual calendar incorporates the new DB2005 calibre derived from the 2004 calibre. Incorporating all the latest DE BETHUNE technologies, this hand-wound mechanical calibre consists of 339 components and has a self-adjusting double spring barrel. The spring barrels are specially designed to eliminate friction and to transmit the maximum amount of energy efficiently.
At the heart of the regulating organ is the titanium / platinum balance with flat terminal curve protected by the triple parachute anti-shock system which reduces variations to a minimum and protects the pivots. With its lightness, this balance enables mechanical friction to be reduced and it has an ideal inertia / mass ratio. The shape of the weights on the balance reduces the effect of viscous air friction.
The principle of the flat terminal curve, in the same plane as the balance spring, compensates for decentring and facilitates its fixing. In this way the delicate process of adjusting its rate is avoided. With 25 jewels, the movement makes 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 5 days readable on the back of the watch.
A testimony to DE BETHUNE’s technical knowledge and skill, the latest DB26 fitted with this new calibre combines technological sophistication with restraint. This rare piece joins an already rich collection of numerous different calibres, including three new ones developed in 2008.
Model: De Bethune DB26
Case material: Rose gold or grey palladium gold
Case shape: Round
Case dimensions: 44,4mm in diameter and 16,1mm thick
Crystal: Sapphire, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment
Crown: Screw-down at 6 o’clock, settings in 3 positions
Hands : Sapphire hands surrounded by hand-blued steel
DB 2005 – hand-wound mechanical – 339 parts – decorated and « colimaçonné », steel chamfered and polished by hand – double self-adjusting mainspring barrels – titanium / platinum balance with flat terminal curve protected by a triple-parachute anti-shock system
Frequency: 28’800 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 5 days
Perpetual calendar indicating date at 9 o’clock, day / month through windows
Moon phase indication and leap year indication at 3 o’clock
Power reserve indicator on the back
Correctors: Day, month and moon phase
Alligator leather with sport type ardillon buckle