With its round case, elegant dial, and guilloché bezel, the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” is one of the most emblematic ambassadors of the Patek Philippe style. The manufacture’s watchmakers have subtly evolved the timeless classic, creating a slightly enlarged version that underscores its ultra-thin silhouette and the eloquence of its design. It is an irresistible paragon of elegance.
The first version of the Calatrava was launched in 1932, inspired by the Bauhaus principle. Recognized as the quintessential watch design today, it personifies a distilled elegance, equilibrium and functionality. Its round case has been reinterpreted in numerous versions without ever sacrificing its legendary purity. No other model is more popular than the Ref. 3919 Calatrava with the guilloché “Clous de Paris” bezel introduced in 1985.
This inimitable classic is in the annals of watchmaking and remains one of the best known Patek Philippe watches ever crafted. For nearly 10 years, it communicated the spirit of the manufacture in an advertising campaign that is fondly remembered by lovers of beautiful timepieces.
Introduced in 2006, the Ref. 5119 Calatrava, with a slightly enlarged case diameter (36 mm instead of 33.5 mm), was inspired by the 1985 “Clous de Paris” model, a quintessential timepiece in the Patek Philippe collections. The contemporary scale elevates the personality of the watch and emphasizes the signature ultra-thin silhouette that was so characteristic of the original.
The case is crafted in 18K yellow, rose and white gold and features particularly refined details such as a satin-finished side, mirror-polished lugs, and slightly domed crystal. The bezel is decorated with the famous “Clous de Paris” hobnail pattern, using a traditional diamond guilloché technique that is highly esteemed by the manufacture’s talented artisans.
The design of the dial remains true to the original whose austerity has survived all fashion trends. The designers merely slightly elongated and thinned the black Roman numerals on the bright white background to make the dial even more luminous.
Hours and minutes are indicated by delicate leaf -shaped hands and the small seconds hand discreetly appears in a black transfer-printed subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock. The sublime elegance of the watch is complemented by a glossy black alligator strap with a prong buckle in 18K yellow, rose or white gold.
The heart of the Ref. 5119 is the manually wound caliber 215 PS movement, one of the thinnest in Patek Philippe’s collections. It is a masterpiece of horological ingenuity, crafted with infinite patience and marked, as all of the manufacture’s mechanical movements, with the prestigious Geneva Seal.
Its meticulous finishing can be admired through the sapphire-crystal back secured to the case with six screws, a rare feature in Patek Philippe watches. In fact, the case design was fundamentally changed. The Ref. 3919 had a two-part case with a snap bezel in which the movement with a split-winding stem was inserted from the top.
This model has a three-part case with a screw-on back, eliminating the need for a split stem.
Model: Calatrava Ref. 5119
Caliber 215 PS
Manually wound mechanical movement
Diameter: 21.90 mm
Height: 2.55 mm
Number of parts: 130
Number of jewels: 18
Power reserve: About 44 hours
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Flat
– Pulled out: to set time
– Pushed in: to wind watch
Hours, minutes, small seconds on a subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock
Hallmark: Geneva Seal
18K yellow, rose or white gold with hobnail patterned bezel
18K yellow, rose or white gold back secured with 6 screws, with sapphire crystal
Water-resistant to 25 meters
Case dimensions: Diameter: 36 mm
Width between lugs: 20 mm
White lacquered dial
12 Roman numerals, black transfer-printed
Small seconds dial, black transfer-printed
Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands in black nickel-plated 18K white gold
Baton-style seconds hand in black nickel-plated gold
Glossy black alligator, with 16-mm prong buckle in 18K yellow, rose or white gold to match the case