Officially it is the Seamaster Professional 300m Chronometer, but it is universally known as the “Bond” watch thanks to its appearance Bond movies since GoldenEye in 1995. Like the legendary Speedmaster Professional, its overall design is sacrosanct, thus allowing only the most subtle of modifications on its distinctive dial.
Launched in 2004, the new GMT version respects this tenet and at the same time provides a genuinely useful additional feature for those who, like Bond, can find themselves hopping from one continent to another at a moment’s notice.
The Seamaster Professional Chronometer has appeared in the Bond movies GoldenEye (1995), Tomorrow Never Dies (1997), The World is Not Enough (1999) and Die Another Day (2002), each time with at least one life-saving feature to get the secret agent out of a sticky situation.
Today, the Seamaster benefits from enormous worldwide popularity thanks to the Bond franchise, which allowed Omega to show it in a highly legitimate setting, since it looks just as good with a tailored tuxedo as it does when worn around a wetsuit in the ocean’s depths. The Seamaster was designed as a robust divers’ watch, which explains why it can take the severe treatment of the James Bond lifestyle in its stride.
It has a tough 39.3mm stainless-steel case with a screw-in case back and a screw-in protected crown that ensure water resistance to 300 metres. It offers several useful features for professional divers: a helium escape valve, which can be opened during resurfacing in a diving bell; a special clasp on the bracelet with a fold-out extension that allows the watch to be worn with a wetsuit and a notched bezel with minute scale that rotates anti-clockwise, allowing elapsed (dive) times to be recorded accurately and safely.
The James Bond GMT watch has the Seamaster Professional’s trademark blue dial with wave imprint, applied hour markers filled with luminous SuperLuminova dots and skeleton hands coated with SuperLuminova.
The red GMT hand makes one rotation every twenty-four hours and can be used to read off a second time zone on the 24-hour scale beneath the hour markers. This useful function is provided by the Omega calibre 2628 Co-Axial movement, a self-winding chronometer with a power reserve of 44 hours that is visible behind the transparent sapphire crystal case back.
Since their launch in 1999, Omega’s Co-Axial movements have proved worthy alternatives to the traditional Swiss lever escapement, offering reduced friction and, therefore, greater long-term accuracy.
The Co-Axial movements also use the Omega free sprung-balance without index, which avoids the disturbing effects of contact between the balance-spring and the index pins and therefore ensures stability of the watch’s going rate over long periods of use. This high-precision movement, with official Swiss chronometer certification (COSC), has a meticulous finish with circular-graining, Geneva wave decor, polished bevelled bridges, rhodium-plated surfaces and gilt engravings.