The first automatic De Bethune calibre was introduced in 2006. It was designed for the DB22 power and then modified for the DB 24 big power, both watches focused on the best possible sport watch that De Bethune can produce.
De Bethune is reintroducing this successful automatic calibre movement in a more classical case. A classic case magnificently executed with elegant lugs emerging from the case and dials of timeless appeal.
This new timepiece, the DB25 illustrates once more the passion which drives David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet, founders of the De Bethune manufacture, persistently to improve the fundamentals of watch making and to create unique timepieces to people to discover.
Before describing the aesthetic details of this watch, it is necessary to explain its automatic movement, the DB24 , which is completely manufactured within the De Bethune workshops.
With a diameter of 30mm, like all the movements of the brand it has celebrated titanium /platinum balance developed since 2004 to meet one of the aims of David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet; to improve the performance of the mechanical watch.
Made of titanium and platinum, this balance wheels enables the best inertia /mass ratio to be achieved and reduce variations caused by shocks. It consists of four titanium arms with inertia blocks which beneficially replace the usual rim to obtain the best mass/distance ratio.
The balance spring is fitted with the flat terminal curve, this is positioned in the same plane as the balance spring itself , facilitating its fixing and eliminating the need for the delicate process of adjusting the timing.
At the same time it enables the height of the spring to be reduced by 2/3 in comparison with a classic Breguet over coil. It also plays a shock absorbing role, avoiding the risk the spring being distorted through shock where it contacts the balance spring stud. Developed in 2004 by the De Bethune manufacture, it enables perfect isochronism to be achieved.
In Conclusion this balance is protected by a triple-parachute system which allows the balance to be positioned in a more exact ,more stable manner, also enabling it to absorb shocks through the springs fitted to the ends of the bridge.
This automatic calibre is wound by a rotor made of titanium /platinum in order to ensure great inertia with minimum mass. This considerable inertia drives the wheel- work of the automatic winding system in an ideal fashion.In addition,the oscillating mass is pivoted on a ceramic ball bearing which enables the use of oil to be avoided and which gives increased freedom of rotation by reducing friction.
To protect the ceramic ball bearing from shock and limit side pressure on the bearing , the titanium/platinum oscillating weight is fitted with a central anti-shock system consisting of four spring feet and 12 jewels. Finally, since titanium is very flexible, it has the effect of a spring and enables shocks to be absorbed.
The case consists of three pieces;a Screw back and a bezel pressed on to a case. The case is machined from a single block so that the lugs combine-extra finesse with great strength. This result with out welding is possible through the process of 5-axis machining. Achieving great legibility with discretion, the power reserve is indicated in a window at 12o’clock.
The DB25 collection is based on two models. The first has a silvered dial, De Bethune manufacture by hand. The hour ring sets off the central guilloche pattern radiating in 12 sectors and emphasises the barleycom guilloche outside the dial. The second model has a titanium dial. The minute figures are reflected in a mirror deposit on the glass to give a lustrous effect. The hour markers consist of little spheres of blued steel.
Available in white or rose gold, this new timepiece once again demonstrates the depth of this brand’s technology and skill.
Model: De Bethune DB25
Hours, minutes, power reserve window at 12’o clock
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour
Power reserve: 6 days
Titanium/platinum oscillating weight is fitted with a central anti-shock system
Case, dial and strap
Drum shape; rose gold or white gold
Case dimensions: 44.6mm diameter and 11.1mm thick
Dial: Silvered, guilloche by hand, or titanium
Hands: Steel; hand-polished
Strap: Alligator leather with traditional ardilon buckle.
Crystal: Sapphire,1800 vickers hardness with double anti reflective treatment.
Crown: Screw down at 3’o clock; setting in three positions.