The elegant, streamlined form, innovative indications, and ergonomic functions of Chapter One belie the incredible complexity of its unique movement and the compound-curve sophistication of its case. Chapter One’s three Masters—Mr. Christophe Claret, Mr. Roger Dubuis, and Mr. Peter Speake-Marin—have come together to craft a horological work of art, both inside and out.
Long, flowing compound curves traverse the case, imparting a sense of nobility and power without leaving a trace of the complexity involved. The ease of both reading and adjusting Chapter One’s many indications disguises the fact that this is a world-first combination of complications crafted from 558 components.
No wristwatch before Chapter One has ever featured a tourbillon movement incorporating a mono-pusher column wheel chronograph, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, and phase of the moon and day of the week indications displayed on their own distinctive rolling bars. Efficiently transmitting power 90° to the two rollers and ensuring that they work simultaneously with the time, date, GMT, and chronograph was an immense technical challenge.
That the challenge was met and surpassed is further testament to Chapter One’s enormously talented team.A tour of the dial reveals central coaxial hours, minutes, and chronograph 60-second counter, tourbillon and day of the week roller at 6 o’clock; retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock; 60-minute chronograph counter and precision moon phase roller at 12 o’clock; and retrograde date at 3 o’clock.
Meticulous attention to every minute detail throughout the design and execution of all facets of Chapter One’s development has resulted in a timepiece of exceptional presence and refinement. The harmoniously integrated rolling bars, for example, had to be both large enough to be easily read and small enough to be ultra-light and homogeneous with the case. Scintillating, laser-pierced moon and stars on the outer roller of the moon phase indication add to its stellar elegance.
Myriad details make Chapter One a timepiece that richly rewards a closer look, from the small window between the day roller and the tourbillon, which allows a unique view of the superbly finished gyrating tourbillon cage, to the series of mirror-polished angled surfaces catching and reflecting light and bringing the multi-level dial to life. Even the locking corrector pushers are formed from curves meeting at an imaginary point so as to perfectly follow the graceful flow of the case.
Manual-wind mechanical movement, one-minute tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde date indicator, retrograde GMT indicator, day of the week indication on roller, patented precise moon phase indication on roller.
Central hands indicating hours and minutes
Central chronograph counterpoised second hand
60-minute counter at 12 o’clock
Retrograde date at 3 o’clock
Retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock
One-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Day of the week indication on roller at 6 o’clock
Patented precise moon phase indication on roller at 12 o’clock
Two-position winding crown:pushed in to wind the watch; pulled out to set the time
Chronograph: start/stop/return-to-zero function activated by single pusher in the crown
Date corrector at 2 o’clock
Day of the week corrector at 4 o’clock
Moon phase corrector at 8 o’clock
GMT corrector at 10 o’clock
Dimensions: 51mm x 32 mm
Number of components: 558
Number of jewels: 58
Power reserve: 60 hours
Tourbillon rotation: 60 seconds
Balance frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
18K red gold or titanium with gold accents
Number of components: 104
Dimensions: 62.60 mm x 45.90 mm
Sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
Display back: sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
High polish and satin finishes on compound-curve surfaces
Correctors with integrated locking system.
Number of components: 7
Multi-faceted and beveled
Printed Roman numerals
Engine-turned sun-ray guilloche
Red counterpoised chronograph hand
Blue sword-shaped hands for chronograph counter, hour, minute, date, and GMT
-Day barrel: anodized anticorodal finished aluminum
-Moon phase barrel: anodized anticorodal finished aluminum inside a matte anodized cover with laser-pierced moon and stars
-Window between day roller and tourbillon
Alligator strap with 18K red gold deployant buckle