Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196 “Grande Classique”

Launched in 2004, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196 “Grande Classique” comes with an impressive 37-millimeter diameter case and a smooth, polished bezel.

In 1932, Patek Philippe introduced a sleek and distinctive wristwatch with Ref. 96. It instantly became a benchmark of 20th-century watch design. It was named after a Spanish order of knighthood whose fleurs-de-lys emblem was adopted as the symbol of Patek Philippe. Over the past seven decades, the Calatrava has undergone many permutations but always preserved its sense of understated nobility.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196 gold watches

In this interpretation, the Ref. 5196 pays tribute to the original 1932 Calatrava. The original Calatrava case was inspired by the Bauhaus philosophy that form should follow function. In the case of the wristwatch, the succession of circular motions – starting with the turning of the winding crown, the movements of the balance and wheel trains, and the circular path of the hour and minute hands – clearly dictated a round form. Since the purpose of a watch is to tell time, the Bauhaus school discouraged embellishments and other details that might distract from the hands.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196 J, Yellow gold model
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196 J, Yellow gold model

With the Calatrava Grande Classique Ref. 5196, Patek Philippe continues to honor the maxims of Bauhaus design. Nothing diverts attention from the steady progression of the hands. Because in everyday life the emphasis is on hours and minutes, the seconds hand turns in a discreetly reduced subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196 G, White gold model
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196 G, White gold model

This exemplar of functionality is accommodated in an enlarged case with a diameter of 37millimeters, resulting in a sleek yet substantial timepiece that feels terrific on the wrist. The wide bezel is mirror-polished and the case merges seamlessly with the elegantly curved strap lugs.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196 watch case back

A solid snap back vacuum-seals the case for water resistance to 25 meters. The new Calatrava Ref. 5196 is available in three gold models and one in platinum.

The models, in 18K yellow, rose, or white gold, are fitted with a slightly domed and satin-finished dial accented by dauphine hands in gold to match the case. The hours are identified with applied gold markers and the minutes with a string of tiny golden pearls.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196 R, Rose gold model
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196 R, Rose gold model

The Calatrava Ref. 5196 in platinum presents a slightly different style. It has a silvery dial with applied Breguet numerals in white gold. Its design is reminiscent of the Calatrava 570 from the 1940s, a watch that now occupies a prominent place in the permanent collection of the Patek Philippe Museum.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196 P, Platinum model
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196 P, Platinum

The center of the dial, framed by a chrome band, is diamond polished. The recessed subsidiary dial is at 6o’clock, adorned with black Breguet numerals and a feuille hand. The white gold hour and minute hands are also feuille.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196 P, Platinum watch

Another distinction between this platinum timepiece and its white gold sibling is the discreet diamond set between the lugs at 6 o’clock.

All models come with a hand-stitched alligator strap -brown for the yellow and rose gold cases and black for the white gold and platinum models. The buckles are made of the same precious metals as the cases.

The classic design of the Calatrava is underscored by a movement which itself has become a classic: the Patek Philippe manufacture caliber 215 PS (Petite Seconde = small seconds).

This manually wound mechanical movement combines the ultimate in reliability with superb accuracy. Only 2.55 millimeters thick, it incorporates 130 meticulously finished individual parts and proudly bears the prestigious Geneva Seal.

Technical details

Model: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5196

Versions
Ref. 5196 J: 18K Yellow Gold
Ref. 5196 G: 18K White Gold
Ref. 5196 R: 18K Rose Gold
Ref. 5196 P: Platinum

Movement
Caliber 215 PS
Manually wound mechanical movement
Diameter: 21.90 mm
Height: 2.55 mm
Number of parts: 130
Number of jewels: 18
Power reserve: Approx. 44 hours
Balance: Gyromax
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
Balance spring: Flat

Winding crown with two positions:
– pulled out to set the time
– pushed in to wind the watch

Displays
Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock

Hallmark
Geneva Seal

Case
18K yellow gold, rose gold, white gold or platinum
Solid snap back in 18K yellow, rose, or white gold or in platinum
Water resistant to 25 meters
Diameter: 37 mm
Height: 6.8 mm
Width between lugs: 21 mm

Dials

Calatrava Ref. 5196 J, Yellow gold model 

  • Domed dial, silvery opaline, vertical satin finish; 12 applied “obus” hour markers with four lapped bevels in 18K yellow gold (truncated at 6 o’clock, twin hour marker at 12 o’clock)
  • Subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock
  • Applied pearl drop minute markers in 18K yellow gold
  • Hands : Dauphine hour and minute hands in 18K yellow gold; Leaf-shaped seconds hand in 18K yellow gold

Calatrava Ref. 5196 R, Rose gold model

  • Domed dial, silvery gray, vertical satin finish; 12 applied “obus” hour markers with four lapped bevels in 18K rose gold (truncated at 6 o’clock, twin hour marker at 12 o’clock)
  • Subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock
  • Applied pearl drop minute markers in 18K rose gold
  • Hands : Dauphine hour and minute hands in 18K rose gold; Leaf-shaped seconds hand in 18K rose gold

Calatrava Ref. 5196 G, White gold model

  • Domed dial, silvery gray, vertical satin finish; 12 applied “obus” hour markers with four lapped bevels in 18K white gold (truncated at 6 o’clock, twin hour marker at 12 o’clock)
  • Subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock
  • Applied pearl drop minute markers in 18K white gold
  • Hands : Dauphine hour and minute hands in 18K white gold; Leaf-shaped seconds hand in 18K white gold

Calatrava Ref. 5196 P, Platinum model

  • Silvery dial with diamond-polished center and chrome band
  • Applied Breguet numerals in 18K white gold
  • Recessed subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock
  • Applied pearl drop minute markers in 18K white gold
  • Hands: Leaf-shaped hour, minute, and seconds hands in 18K white gold

Strap
Hand-stitched alligator with 16-mm buckle to match the case in 18K yellow, rose, or white gold or in platinum